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Humbucker Dissection, Gibson Custombucker / Duncan Custom 78

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  • #31
    Originally posted by big_teee View Post
    The start and finish lead look to be both connected on the top after winding.
    A lot of the winders do that now.
    Pretty sure that Seymour duncan does it that way.
    I never seen this before, great info.

    It's really weird, because the starting hookup wire seems to covered with the coil wire.
    So i'm pretty sure, that it was hooked before the winding.

    The starting point of the coil wire comes out on the upper side of the bobbin, in the middle on the longer side.
    Maybe they hook the hook-up wire trough the hole, and strung it to the side, before starting to wind.

    The soldering could be made after winding: there ist about 2inch wire from the starting side left under the covering tape left.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Mack Guitarworks View Post
      Hi Pepe, i'm located in Hungary, Budapest.

      I'm pretty sure it's pl. enamel.
      Alright then!
      Pepe aka Lt. Kojak
      Milano, Italy

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Mack Guitarworks View Post
        [ATTACH=CONFIG]38735[/ATTACH]
        I've been doing both of my leads after winding by taping the start to the bobbin, but I've never seen anything like this! I can't seem to make sense of it, either - why would you pull the black lead wire through the hole in the bottom, tape it off and solder the start after winding? The lead through the bobbin offers some strain relief, but there would be that layer of 28G wire looped through for the turns on that part of the bobbin to deal with as they wind. Oh well - it's Gibson...doesn't have to make sense!


        cheers,
        Jack Briggs

        sigpic
        www.briggsguitars.com

        forum.briggsguitars.com

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by jack briggs View Post
          ...why would you pull the black lead wire through the hole in the bottom, tape it off and solder the start after winding? Oh well - it's Gibson...doesn't have to make sense!
          Yes, that's the point, wich i didn't understand too. But it makes sense, just follow my thoughts.

          Just look at this picture. The PE pickup wire is running partially OVER the hook-up wire, but there are turns UNDER the hook-up wire too(!).
          Because of this, i think the hook-up wire was pulled to the place, before they started to wind. I think they pulled it trough the hole, formed an U and stretched/taped down to the side.
          Some wire was slipped under the hookup wire during the winding, but at a point there was no place to slip, and the wire covered the partially hookup wire.

          But there's another point to think about.

          The starting wire (i mean the plain enamel) comes out on the UPPER side of the bobbin, but the hook-up wire is located on the BOTTOM of the bobbin.
          So i'm sure the soldering was done after the winding. There was about 1,5-2" plain enamel wire left, which was rolled an taped between two tapes carefully.
          It' hided, you just can't see it, when you are removing the tape.

          And here comes the end of my thoughts: if you are removing the tape and don't have the information about how the starting wire was done, you simply break the the starting wire while removing the tape.
          You will break the wire near the bobbin, where it comes out on the upper side of the bobbin.
          It's taped down in the purpose to have not enough wire left to resolder it.

          It's a perfect thing, if you want to protect your secrets.
          And it's working perfectly: i breaked the slug coil by removing the tape on my pickup too. (I was able to resolder it, but i had only 1/8" wire left, not an easy operation)

          Click image for larger version

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          • #35
            And here are the gauss readings of the magnet... what do you think?
            S is South, N is North on the Gaussmeter.

            My vote is: A3
            What do you think?

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Mack Guitarworks View Post
              And here are the gauss readings of the magnet... what do you think?
              S is South, N is North on the Gaussmeter.

              My vote is: A3
              What do you think?






              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39062[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39063[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39064[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39065[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39066[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]39067[/ATTACH]

              Could be.
              You need to do an induction test with the magnet and with various known grades. Gauss readings will tell nothing about what grade the magnet is, since any grade can be degaussed to that level.

              cheers,
              Jack Briggs

              sigpic
              www.briggsguitars.com

              forum.briggsguitars.com

              Comment


              • #37
                Nice pictures, and gauss meter.
                Humbuckers are easy to do a magnet swap on.
                With a known humbucker that you like the tone of?
                Start swapping, try all grades you have on hand.
                I usually end up with my favorite A2s at full charge.
                Also keep in mind that covers rob some of the magnet punch.
                So sometimes I use A5s in place of the A2s.
                GL,
                T
                Last edited by big_teee; 05-10-2016, 02:15 PM.
                "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
                Terry

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