What to start off with

[John_H]

Here are some photos of one of the last bobbins I wound. I did take photos of the other one but they weren't very clear! You can see that even with the tight tension I only just got 5600 turns on there because of the 50TPL.
Thanks for your help with this by the way, really appreciate it.

How tall are those coils? They look big, and could be much different than those of the super 57. Coil height can greatly affect the tone. A drastic example of this is the comparison of a Jazzmaster, and stratocaster pickups. The flat wide coil of the Jazzmaster has a distinctly different tone than the strat. Other than the height these pickups are almost identical.

I've found that when I'm experimenting with anything, it's usually better for me to take my own path, rather than trying to produce a clone. Pickups especially.

Consistency is hugely important, and reliant upon accurate measurements. If you don't have a reliable method of measuring tension, and pitch, every pickup you wind is basically a potshot. You may get close, and like the results, but without precise measurements it's impossible to duplicate the outcome.

The attachment is a drawing of an actual vintage bobbin with dimensions. You can use this for comparison. The taller bobbins came about so builders could pack more turns on them. It affects the tone substantially, and I personally don't use them.

[Helmholtz]

How tall are those coils? They look big, and could be much different than those of the super 57. Coil height can greatly affect the tone. A drastic example of this is the comparison of a Jazzmaster, and stratocaster pickups. The flat wide coil of the Jazzmaster has a distinctly different tone than the strat. Other than the height these pickups are almost identical.

The major difference between Jazzmaster and Strat PUs is in inductance.
Typical values:
Jazzmaster: 4H to 4.6H (that's in the ballpark of a Gibson PAF but lower than a P-90 typically measuring between 6H and 8H.)
Strat: 2.2H to 2.6H.

Inductance is affected by coil shape but more so by turns number (as well as core type/dimensions).

[John_H]

The major difference between Jazzmaster and Strat PUs is in inductance...
...Inductance is affected by coil shape but more so by turns number (as well as core type/dimensions).

Thanks Roland, perhaps I was oversimplifying. The bobbins in the image look tall compared to a normal humbucker bobbin. I used the strat/jmaster comparison because of the similarities they have other than shape. He might improve the results with different bobbins.

[littlewyan]

Thanks for your responses, I checked the bobbins against those dimensions and they match. I have however made progress! Turns out my bobbins weren’t centred on my winder, that’s now sorted and my last wind was so much better. It was actually a usable pickup tonewise! I’m also holding my hand a bit closer now so the wire can’t move about as much.

In the attached photo my latest coil is on the left and the one before these changes is on the right. It’s not a fair comparison as the one on the right has been taped up and used, but there does seem to be a big difference between them.

[big_teee]

Are you using adjustable guide collars on a stationary rod, to set the winding width of your bobbin?
Or are you just winding by free hand?
You need the collars to set that bobbin winding width.
Also looking at your wound bobbins?
Check to see if your mounted bobbin is turning and running true, with no run out.
If you measure from the end of the bobbin to the winder, on one end, turn it around and measure the other end.
If they don't measure exactly the same, that is run out.
Everything has to be aligned straight.
When I first started, I had a lot of run out issues.
Make sure your winder and bobbin is tracking true.
T
**picture of rod with adjustable guide collars.

[littlewyan]

I'm winding by free hand. I figured as Tim Mills and Seymour Duncan do it I should give it a go. I might switch to using guide collars but I'm getting the hang of free hand.
And yes, my bobbins are now running true. I have had numerous issues with this too, but I think I've finally got to the bottom of it. Made another pickup yesterday which sounded great too, so I think I'm finally good to start experimenting and getting actual results. I think what I've learnt about TPL and tension up to this point has been wasted! To improve things further I do plan on making new bobbin holders which have screws that go through the bobbin to fix it into position. I'm currently using double sided tape but moving to screws would ensure the bobbin is central every time.

[big_teee]

I highly suggest and recommend, that you build a guide rod assembly, with collars.
The only free hand winding I know of, is done on taller strat type bobbins.
As The bobbin height gets shorter or narrower, controlling the bobbin winding width is critical.
The collars control the winding width much better than free hand.
The inside of a humbucker bobbin is .250 inches.
You would need to wind very slow, if you are winding free hand.
To set up the collars, I use a caliper to measure the inside of the bobbin.
Then I set the collar groove width just less than the width of inside the bobbin.
That will also reduce the flaring at the end of the bobbins.
Most here wind with CNC winders.
Does anyone else here that wind by hand, wind without guide stop collars?
Others please jump in!
T
**There are all kinds of videos of hand winding on youtube.
Practically all include guide bar and collars.
Here's one of those videos.