Useful tools

[Steve A.]

A lawsuit was filed against CVS in January 2015:

The plaintiffs, two California men with AMD who purchased the CVS product, say that Advanced Eye Health lacks the vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc, and copper that the NIH studies deemed important to its formula.
Instead, the CVS product contains two plant-derived antioxidants — lutein and zeaxanthin — and omega-3 fatty acids.


However, in the conclusion for AREDS 2 [PDF], the NIH found that “Adding omega-3 fatty acids did not improve” on the original vitamins, beta-carotene, zinc and copper formula. And while the NIH concluded that lutein and zeaxanthin were safer than plain old beta-carotene, their addition to the formula “had no overall effect on AMD.”

https://consumerist.com/2015/01/14/l...is-misleading/


I am perplexed. If lutein and zeaxanthin were shown to have "no overall effect on AMD” I don't see how the other 4 very common ingredients (vitamins C & E, zinc and copper) would be effective. As pointed out previously it can't be related to the exact combination of those ingredients since there is no telling how much of them we are getting from our diet as well as any vitamin supplements we are taking.


Play it safe: wear sunglasses when out in the sun. They will help prevent AMD and will help people already diagnosed with AMD.





Steve Ahola

[Steve A.]

I prefer glasses with no upper frame so I can easily look over them like bifocals. This is necessary for my job because I traverse a lot of stairs, ladders and landscape terrain. I've experienced a much greater tendency for errant foot falls when looking through magnifiers. So I wear mostly these no top frame glasses and I wear them low on my nose. Giving me that old lady/ Ben Franklin look

When I first got my progressive bifocals I was warned about going down stairs... Dang, it was like an acid flashback!

Steve Ahola

[big_teee]

If that is the no line bi or trifocals?
I can't wear them.
You have to turn your head too much.
I tred to hunt with them, and hated them.
T

[Steve A.]

If that is the no line bi or trifocals?
I can't wear them.
You have to turn your head too much.
I tred to hunt with them, and hated them.
T

I had problems with the misaligned ones from JC Penneys but not with the ones carefully measured at Kaiser. Maybe I just got used to them but they seem as natural to me as my regular vision, only I can read signs at the grocery store and on the highway. I do flip them up when looking at something up close.

After wearing bifocals for a few years I thought that weren't helping that much so I ordered regular glasses. Damn, I'd look down at my watch while driving and couldn't make out the time at all!

Steve Ahola

[bob p]

sunglasses have been proven to help prevent cataract formation, but if they prevent AMD/age-related macular degeneration that's news to me. of course, neither one of those diseases are the ones that are effecting all of us as our corneas grow old and stiff. that condition is called presbyopia. people seem to be confusing 3 different eye diseases.

the AREDS and AREDS-2 studies addressed prevention of ARMD and cataract formation, not presbyopia. while the official NIH funded studies found that specific vitamin formulations could help prevent the occurrence of ARMD, they yielded no positive results whatsoever about other eye problems like cataracts and presbyopia. the AREDS/AREDS-2 formulations were proven only to help prevent the dry form of ARMD.

Unfortunately there has been quite a bit of over-extrapolation among vitamin sellers, the lay press and consumers who like to believe that these formulations promote general eye health. there's no data to support those assertions, they've only been shown to help prevent one specific disease. and like Steve said, the studies never even addressed combining these formulations with other vitamin formulations. doubling up on the vitamins from multiple sources may not be helpful.

http://nei.nih.gov/amd

http://nei.nih.gov/areds2/

[big_teee]

Steve, keep beating that horse?
Maybe he'll get back up!

T

[Enzo]

Ever heard of "plumbers glasses"? They are regular bifocals, except the closeup part is on top and the distance on the bottom. It is for a plumber or anyone who climbs under something and has to look up at close work.

I like regular bifocals. I have the close area wide enough to cover my whole desk top. Not the tiny area some use. I tried the progressive lenses and hated them. Those no-line bifocals have a continuous change from far to near, so you can look further up or down your lens depending on how far you want to focus. Unfortunately that means the focus is straight ahead. Off to either side of center, no matter close or far, the focus is less clear. SO if I glance to the side to read a highway sign but keep my head facing front, the sign will not be as clear. You basically have to aim your face at what you want to see. A narrow field of view.

When I got my first pair of bifocals, the close area at the bottom was un nerving, as I walked up stairs or something, I was aware of that area kinda swirling as I moved. After a couple days, I got used to that.

[bob p]

I need cheaters but I don't need bifocals. My normal vision is OK and I just need something for reading. I'd like to have a pair of low-slung semicircle type readers that I can look over when I'm not reading, the kind that "Jonesey" the sonar operator wore in The Hunt for Red October. anybody know where to get them?

[Chuck H]

I need cheaters but I don't need bifocals. My normal vision is OK and I just need something for reading. I'd like to have a pair of low-slung semicircle type readers that I can look over when I'm not reading, the kind that "Jonesey" the sonar operator wore in The Hunt for Red October. anybody know where to get them?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]39931[/ATTACH]

That's what I wear, only smaller lenses. Look up "half moon", "half frame", "low riders", "peek over", etc. in combination with "reading glasses" and you'll find them. I use "no frame" glasses for reading. I find the frames in my periphery distracting and unpleasant. You can get perfectly acceptable glasses from the cheapie racks at hardware and drug stores too. But you have to try on several pair to find some with good, balanced lenses that don't present googly from one eye to the other or make you feel like you're looking through a fish bowl. Some of my better readers have been from such racks when selected hands on. NEVER buy cheapies sight unseen off the internet. Go at least mid priced ($15-$30) and go with a brand that has a good rep. Spending a little more on a useful tool is loads better than spending less on useless junk. IMHE the Dr. Dean Edell line have very good lenses and are worth their mid price point. I've never had the pleasure of owning a high priced, top end pair of readers.

[Steve A.]

I have found this set of precision slotted and Phillips bit to be extremely handy and dependable (the tips are made from a very hard steel.) I punched the stock # on the handle (74501) into Google only to find it discontinued, although people on eBay were selling them for $13 to $20 or even more.



It turns out that Home Depot is selling a new version of the driver #71281H for $5.97. I can't say whether it is as good as the original but Home Depot has a great return policy if you don't like it.

Husky 8-in-1 Precision Slotted and Philips Screwdriver Set-71281H - The Home Depot

I found the same scenario for the Husky 8 in 1 Star and torx Precision Screwdriver Set, with the original stock #74502 set discontinued and replaced by the #70381H set for $5.97. (This set would be great for taking apart cell phones and tablets!)

Husky 8-in-1 Precision Torx Screwdriver Set-70381H - The Home Depot

Steve Ahola

[Chuck H]

Screwdrivers that don't wear like butter knives are getting hard to come by. So let's hope the new product is of the same quality. I've SEEN chipped screw driver heads (on older screw drivers). I don't know how it happened and I've never managed to do it myself. What I see most often is heads bent and deformed. Not enough hardness and to much plasticity. It likely has more to do with the quality of the steel rather than some decision about an ideal steel temper. So spend another dime on the fricken steel and charge me fifty cents. I'll pay it! There's a reason they call some materials "tool steel". I wish tool makers still used the stuff.?.

My pocket knife is made of 1095 tool steel. It's an old USA made Schrade Old Timer. I've been carrying the same model in my pocket since I was twelve! You can still find them on *bay for about thirty bucks (and worth every penny). This is maybe my fourth knife. I have a nearly new replacement in a drawer for when this one finally wears out. I probably won't need more than that but I'm considering getting another just in case. Since they aren't made anymore and their quality is now being recognized they will only go up in price and scarcity so it only makes sense. My point is... If I could get screw drivers made from real, honest to Pete tool steel with a good heat treat that performs like it should, that is the only brand I would ever buy. Since that ideal is so scarce I have to wonder if I'm the weirdo for recognizing the difference.?.

Get your USA Schrade Old Timers while you can! And don't fall for the new ones made in China for Taylor that have a fricken US flag on the box. Schrade was purchased by Taylor in the mid 90's and the quality of the new product is NOT representative of the reputation.

[Steve A.]

I have a lot of those tiny chrome plated bits that strip out very easily. Never with this set which I read is made from "s steel" - whatever that may be. With the very small mass involved it should not cost that much to use the best steel. I guess I ought to buy the Torx set to check the quality of the bits.

Steve Ahola

[Enzo]

I wrote nice reply and the forum crunched when I posted it.

Chuck, try a pro tool from one of the garage suppliers like Snap-On or Mac or SK. Those are premium tools for guys who use them for a living.

I have a small 1/4" drive socket wrench set from SK I have had for a few decades, and I love it. Little steel flip lid case, sockets 3/16-1/2", screwdriver type handle plus a small ratchet and two extenders.

My Craftsman screwdrivers have always served me well. The only ones I ever bent were being used as prybars at the time, so my fault, not theirs. MY Craftsman #2 phillips have been great, and my big #3 for Marshall chassis screws and similar. I don't like Craftsman #1 phillips, for some reason the point always seems a trifle over long, and bottoms out in the screw before making a solid grip.

And my Xcelite 99 series #2 phillips bits keep going and going and going. I love the 99 series. That is the yellow handle with a socket, and various blades you stick into the handle. So flat blade and phillips, but also posidrive and reed-prince. I have clutch head blades - those screws with the butterfly holes that Ampeg used back when. And they make nut driver blades. The ones I think I like most are the allen wrench blades. I have a metric and an SAE set. II have Torx blades for it. I wound up getting dedicated Torx drivers too, but the 99 kit is handy.

I have a nice enough SK magnetip driver too.

I have some Craftsman Pro spinner screwdrivers. Swivel end for your fingertip while you spin the barrel with your fingers. Like a big jewelers screwdriver. My set has #1 and #0 phillips and a 1/8" flat. All with 4" of blade sticking out the handle. I use them a LOT.

[Steve A.]

I wrote nice reply and the forum crunched when I posted it.

While composing a post here every now and then Select All and copy it to the Clipboard to protect yourself from random crashes. And then do it again right before you click the button to post your reply. I keep getting error messages like "ticket has expired" and by taking precautions like that I am protected.

Steve Ahola

P.S. I expect the big screwdrivers from Craftsman, etc., to work well. For me it is always those cheap shiny 0000 and 000 bits that strip out unexpectedly when trying to take apart a tablet or cell phone...

Actually those free-with-coupon 7 piece full-sized screwdriver sets from HF are pretty darned good... I grab them when I can and give them out to my friends and neighbors.

P.P.S. Ditto for the Xcelite #99 sets! I carried a set in my toolbag for rooftop HVAC repairs with the screwdriver and nutdriver blades... and one of the big Craftsman screwdrivers for a prybar!

[Richard]

Thanks for the copy paste tip, Steve.

It's not useful for amp work, but a good prybar set is useful. If I mess up a screwdriver I feel like I've abused the tool and the Craftsman guy is gonna give me the look when I return it. If I bend a prybar I expect him to be intimidated. When you use a good prybar you will wonder why you ever used a screwdriver.