Trace Elliot AH1000-12 schematic needed

[Roberto]

I used one of the IRS modules in an Acoustic amp. I couldn't find an STK for it that wasn't fake. It worked well- actually better than originally designed. And, the price is right!

Thanks The Dude, if you confirm they are working properly even if so cheap, I can buy two of them while trying to repair the original blown module.

[The Dude]

Here's a thread detailing my experience.

http://music-electronics-forum.com/t45099/

Post #30 links the module I bought. There are different ones. You'll need to pay attention to mono/stereo, power output, power supply requirements, etc. Ebay is full of them. I have no doubt you can find one that would work.

[J M Fahey]

It's not a matter of being loud, but to restore the original features of the amp.

What for? Is this a collector amp or something? Did Jimi Hendrix use it in the last shopw of his life?

For my personal use

Then I guess a 500W mono Bass amplifier is enough

and to sell it in the future.

Will you spend $250 to $500 on a 20 year old amplifier with no particular Mojo attached which *might* sell for $500 if you are licky?

Just being the Devil´s advocate, nothing personal.

You might also spend the $90 on the replacement power block, ... anything further is burning money with a match.

[glebert]

Like those? www.ebay.it/itm/192155407840
Are they reliable for this purpose (adding a bridge rectifier with enough filtering) running two modules as stereo or together bridged?

I haven't even gotten around to installing any of the modules I've bought (though I have amps that need them), but personally I would go with the biamp/stereo configuration and not try to bridge them. Who needs 1000W into one cabinet?

[Roberto]

I haven't even gotten around to installing any of the modules I've bought (though I have amps that need them), but personally I would go with the biamp/stereo configuration and not try to bridge them. Who needs 1000W into one cabinet?

No one, but this is the way this amp came out of the factory, I would like to keep it. In case of resell, if it's a matter of spending 30 euros for these ebay cheap modules that The Dude testes, it could be a a plus.

[Roberto]

Just being the Devil´s advocate, nothing personal.
You might also spend the $90 on the replacement power block, ... anything further is burning money with a match.

I agree, that's why I told 90 € wasn't so cheap as a part of one of the two power amp modules.
The Dude has proposed some cheaper solutions (around one third of it for 2 modules), using the big toroid already installed (plus a separate rectifier and capacitors board).

EDIT: In Italy those amps are sold, used, at around 800-900 €.

[g1]

EDIT: In Italy those amps are sold, used, at around 800-900 €.

Then if you sell that used module, you should get quite a bit for it.

[glebert]

No one, but this is the way this amp came out of the factory, I would like to keep it. In case of resell, if it's a matter of spending 30 euros for these ebay cheap modules that The Dude testes, it could be a a plus.

If you plan on reselling one thing you'd better do is actually test it at full power with minimum load, which is not easy to do with a 1000 watt amp. I've got an Ampeg SVT 7 Pro that I have sold 3 times because it keeps having issues.

[Roberto]

Then if you sell that used module, you should get quite a bit for it.

Probably it should be like that, I've not investigated yet.

[Roberto]

If you plan on reselling one thing you'd better do is actually test it at full power with minimum load, which is not easy to do with a 1000 watt amp.

Thanks for the tip glebert. Anyone uses electrical heaters to do such kind of tests? Something like three 2kW heaters in parallel (on this side of the pond we run at 230VAC) that should make something around 8 Ohm load (how hot the heaters run usually? in other words, will the resistance be much lower when run cold/warm?).

[glebert]

Thanks for the tip glebert. Anyone uses electrical heaters to do such kind of tests? Something like three 2kW heaters in parallel (on this side of the pond we run at 230VAC) that should make something around 8 Ohm load (how hot the heaters run usually? in other words, will the resistance be much lower when run cold/warm?).

I do something like this, ours are usually rated for 1500W on 120VAC, which should be 8 ohm, but I have found the resistance at cold is more than expected (10 ohms), implying that they either don't actually run at the 1500 watts or perhaps the resistance drops when hot (but that would be opposite of normal physics of a metallic conductor). Often there are two coils in the heater (one for half power, both for full power) so you have to run those coils in parallel to get down close to 8 ohms.

Oh, and while resistive load testing is good, some high power testing through a cab is important too. My cursed SVT 7 Pro's current problem only happens during vibration/shock (like what happens when sitting on a bass cab with 1000 watts coming out), and does not show up during a resistive test.

[Roberto]

Oh, and while resistive load testing is good, some high power testing through a cab is important too. My cursed SVT 7 Pro's current problem only happens during vibration/shock (like what happens when sitting on a bass cab with 1000 watts coming out), and does not show up during a resistive test.

Thank for this detail! May I know what was the issue, at the end? One of the broken amps that I've bought had similar issues and it was just a cold welding that broke down with the years. Half an hour and few cents to bring it back to life.

[glebert]

Thank for this detail! May I know what was the issue, at the end? One of the broken amps that I've bought had similar issues and it was just a cold welding that broke down with the years. Half an hour and few cents to bring it back to life.

http://music-electronics-forum.com/t46071/

Haven't gotten around to working on it yet, and I will admit it is mostly reluctance to even touch an iron to surface mount components, which is dumb.

[J M Fahey]

Electrical water heaters are the best load resistor available over the counter.
Run them under water, of course.
Resistance variation is actually quite small, since you are not letting them run red or white hot, as in a lamp or an oven/toaster/etc. situation; boiling water is actuall real close to ambient temperature, compared to those other duties.
10 ohms is actually real close to 8 ohms, if we are testing amp overheating, "burn in", etc. it´s close enough.
And in fact 8 ohm real world speakers are above 10 ohms over most of their range, except at a midrange section between 200 and 350 or 400 Hz, just look at this graph:

8 ohm red line; 10 ohm blue line:

[Roberto]

Thanks again glebert and Juan Manuel.

So the easiest option is to put two water heating of 3 kW each in parallel, immersed in water and connected to a speakon connector.

Considering 1 kW ouput power, and a reasonable 2 hours of continuous full power test, at least 25 liters of water are needed to avoid going into ebullition:
1 kW are 860 kCal/h
860 kCal/h / 25 liters = 34.4 K/h

So we won’t go into ebullition even if the starting water temperature is 30 Celsius degrees, and considering no thermal dispersion into the ambient.

Noting against ebullition, except it can sprout water on the test bench and vapour in the air that can condensate on colder surfaces.

Do you use something similar Juan?