Originally posted by g1
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Laney TT50H No Outout
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This one. I think it's on the preamp board but I noticed it under the midi board in the picture.
Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Ok, back to the midi board then. Cut pin13 of U2 and see if pin13 and 14 pads are still connected (0 ohms).Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Just idly thinking, when it wants +3 and -3 for the SS stuff, and the +3 comes up missing, then the -3 just fills the circuit. I think if you fix the +3, that will settle into place.
This is a result of building something for one symptom rather than fixing the existing circuit. The lack of channel switching and the dark preamp tubes is the exact same problem. Your 3v supplies are not happening.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Ribbon cable is still disconnected from midi board, yes?
Next try removing C4 from midi board and again check if 83 ohm reading changes.
Make sure midi board is well insulated from touching anything below, use a piece of plastic or cardboard to insulate.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostRibbon cable is still disconnected from midi board, yes?
Next try removing C4 from midi board and again check if 83 ohm reading changes.
Make sure midi board is well insulated from touching anything below, use a piece of plastic or cardboard to insulate.
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Ground yourself to get rid of any static. Very carefully pry up U4 out of it's socket. A small flathead screwdriver or knife will make it easier. Recheck the 83 ohm reading.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Ok, put it back in it's socket. Be careful as it's easy to get legs tucked under rather than going into their slots.
Remove R13 and U2 from the board. Be careful not to damage any traces. If it's easier to cut the legs of U2 first, do that. If you have solder wick, you can remove the excess solder first, then lift each leg with a pin while heating with the solder iron.
After removal, clean both areas up with solder wick and/or isopropyl alcohol.
Once it's all cleaned up, check resistance between pin13 and 14 pads. And from pin14 to ground.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostOk, put it back in it's socket. Be careful as it's easy to get legs tucked under rather than going into their slots.
Remove R13 and U2 from the board. Be careful not to damage any traces. If it's easier to cut the legs of U2 first, do that. If you have solder wick, you can remove the excess solder first, then lift each leg with a pin while heating with the solder iron.
After removal, clean both areas up with solder wick and/or isopropyl alcohol.
Once it's all cleaned up, check resistance between pin13 and 14 pads. And from pin14 to ground.
R14 pad to ground(87 ohms)
1 Photo
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So the short you had earlier measured between pin13 and14 is gone now. That is good. There must have been a solder bridge between those 2 pins.
Look very carefully (with magnifier) at the solder of the ribbon cable connector and the footswitch connector. See if there are any more solder bridges anywhere.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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