Originally posted by Helmholtz
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Traynor YCV-40 No Reverb
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When measuring a battery in AC setting, zero V is the correct reading as you only have DC and no AC.
Forget the meter which reads 17V (for signal measuremnts).
Now connect the autoranging meter to the signal generator output termials and see what you get.Last edited by Helmholtz; 10-11-2021, 05:28 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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The Craftsman is a good meter. If the auto-range function is giving you problems, you can over ride it by using the range button. (see pg.10 of attached manual)Attached FilesOriginally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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BTW, never connect a meter in current (A, mA) mode (like in your middle picture) to a voltage source like a battery.
It means a short to the battery and might even damage the meter.
I have been using autoranging meters since at least 35 years. Hardly ever had a reason to switch to manual mode.
Nice thing is they display the units with the value.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostWhen measuring a battery in AC setting, zero V is the correct reading as you only have DC and no AC.
Forget the meter which reads 17V (for signal measuremnts).
Now connect the autoranging meter to the signal generator output termials and see what you get.
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostWhen measuring a battery in AC setting, zero V is the correct reading as you only have DC and no AC.
Forget the meter which reads 17V (for signal measuremnts).
Now connect the autoranging meter to the signal generator output termials and see what you get.
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That symbol means DC volts. Also the + or - means it must be DC. Signal must be measured with AC range.
That meter does not seem to have an AC volt range. Why aren't you using the Craftsman meter?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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By the way, when you tested the Craftsman with a battery and the meter set to AC, we wanted to see a reading of zero. It passed the test. It should only read battery voltage when set to DC.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat symbol means DC volts. Also the + or - means it must be DC. Signal must be measured with AC range.
That meter does not seem to have an AC volt range. Why aren't you using the Craftsman meter?2 Photos
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
C9(+10.9acv, -10.9acv), C7(+.27acv, -.27acv),C3(+.27acv, -.27acv), C6(+.098acv, -.098acv).
These voltages look perfect and you have a strong rev. drive signal at U2 pin7.
Result is that the reverb drive/send circuit works fine: A 100mVrms signal at the PA IN produces an 11Vrms signal at the tank input.Last edited by Helmholtz; 10-12-2021, 02:20 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat symbol means DC volts. Also the + or - means it must be DC. Signal must be measured with AC range.
That meter does not seem to have an AC volt range. Why aren't you using the Craftsman meter?
The reading is 0.098V, i.e. roughly 0.1V = 100mV.
Value makes sense as the generator probable shows peak-to-peak voltage of 0.3V, which corresponds to about 0.1Vrms.
I think the meter is good.- Own Opinions Only -
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Now we know that:
1) Reverb recovery stage works fine.
2) Reverb drive stage works fine.
Here's another test:
Connect the reverb output cable to tank and powered amp, reverb control up, speaker connected.
Connect the reverb input cable to the tank only.
Now momentarily (!) connect a 9V battery to the open plug contacts of the reverb input cable (may require the use of a battery clip).
Can you hear the reverberated pulse?Last edited by Helmholtz; 10-12-2021, 11:28 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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