Originally posted by g1
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'61 Ampeg R12-R Hum
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Originally posted by g1 View PostIt's worth a try. I thought that with V2 removed and it still humming this would eliminate the footswitch but try disconnecting it anyway.1 Photo
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Grounding the PI (V4) grid kills the hum. To me that means the filter caps are all good and the hum is getting in through the PI stage.
That paper cap is wax covered and looks normal for that type of cap. Without knowing exactly where it goes in the circuit, it's impossible to say if it could be a factor.
Have you been able to identify the markings on the tubes yet? Try swapping the two 6SL7's around.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostGrounding the PI (V4) grid kills the hum. To me that means the filter caps are all good and the hum is getting in through the PI stage.
That paper cap is wax covered and looks normal for that type of cap. Without knowing exactly where it goes in the circuit, it's impossible to say if it could be a factor.
Have you been able to identify the markings on the tubes yet? Try swapping the two 6SL7's around.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostGrounding the PI (V4) grid kills the hum. To me that means the filter caps are all good and the hum is getting in through the PI stage.
That paper cap is wax covered and looks normal for that type of cap. Without knowing exactly where it goes in the circuit, it's impossible to say if it could be a factor.
Have you been able to identify the markings on the tubes yet? Try swapping the two 6SL7's around.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostGrounding the PI (V4) grid kills the hum. To me that means the filter caps are all good and the hum is getting in through the PI stage.
That paper cap is wax covered and looks normal for that type of cap. Without knowing exactly where it goes in the circuit, it's impossible to say if it could be a factor.
Have you been able to identify the markings on the tubes yet? Try swapping the two 6SL7's around.
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Are they supposed to be a matched pair of 6V6 ?
Swap the bias probes around and make sure your higher reading (45mA) stays with the same socket, not with the bias probe.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostAre they supposed to be a matched pair of 6V6 ?
Swap the bias probes around and make sure your higher reading (45mA) stays with the same socket, not with the bias probe.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
They are both mesa matched to str 417/27 MP YEL but one is (37mA) and the other is (45mA) either socket installedOriginally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Only have one bias probe.
V2 pin5 connects to 2 caps, C18 and C19 on the schematic. Lift one end of each and see if it affects the hum.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Ok. Previously you had 6L6's that both read the same. Were they bought as a matched pair? These 6V6 are a bit out but I guess it's not the issue as with the matched 6L6 it still hums.
V2 pin5 connects to 2 caps, C18 and C19 on the schematic. Lift one end of each and see if it affects the hum.
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C18 may be leaky then. Try a replacement. Also make sure the 470K (from one end of C18 to ground) is good.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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