Eden D210XLT cabinet - fuse value?

[MarkusBass]

You did "prove" that the woofer works
I do not believe it was ever stated what the initial problem with the cabinet was.

Lowell started the thread asking about the fuse. In post #8 he mentioned what exactly is the problem (ticking tweeter with class-D bass amp).

Simply a blown fuse? Was the tweeter ever checked?

This would be too easy .

Mark

[lowell]

Mark, I guess my confusion is, where will this lead me? I'm confused about the outcome of this? Thanks for your help.

[g1]

a) It's a light bulb, not a fuse. Personally I have never seen a fuse used for tweeter protection, they always use bulbs as they are dynamic and act as a limiter (resistance increases the more they are lighting up). Where is the old one? Likely it has a standard auto bulb number marked on it. I'm guessing the clips it sits in are a bit larger than a normal fuse clip. You will have to find out what the correct type is from Eden or an Eden dealer. A monitor I have right now uses 2 bulbs soldered together and mounted in the clips so it's best to get the right one, otherwise maybe no protection.
Why was it removed? Turning down the L-pad to shut off the tweeter can burn out the L-pad so some people just remove the bulb if they don't want tweets.
b) No ticking when cab used with another class-D amp. Pretty much rules out the cab in my mind. Possibly an environmental issue or proximity of head to cab. Have you tried moving the head away from the cab? When you tried the head with another cab was it sitting on top of the cab? Seems to me more likely a head problem than speaker cab issue.

[J M Fahey]

A) No ticking straight to the woofer (i. e. no crossover involved)
B) Ticking only with this particular Class D amp + (damaged) cabinet (crossover involved)
C) The problem is crossover related.
Crossovers in cabinets are "transparent" to the amplifier driving them, meaning they are seen as basically resistive loads, *if* on "the other side" you have a regular speaker connected, *but* if said speaker is either open/missing or shorted, the driving amp sees a very funky reactive load.
Regular amps do not like them too much; this Class D one none at all, specially because said amps depend on an output inductor of a very specific value to reconstruct the original audio signal, and expect a reasonably resistive load.
Check that tweeter . Is it open or shorted?
The "fuse" is probably a clip-on car interior or panel light. Try 12V 15W as starter; you might need a 24V one as suggested above, check with Eden, at least download its manual, it usually states such things.
If actually a fuse, start with an 1A type , which allows 8W continuous and, say, 50W very short bursts.
A 2A fuse is *too* much, allowing 32W continuous , too much for any tweeter.
The 12V 15W lamp limits current to slightly over 1A, but blinks instead of dying.
EDIT: lowell said:

does not happen with the cab and another head. ??

not "another Class D head"

[lowell]

Thanks for the post JM. Currently the tweeter is not connected because I do not have a fuse/bulb. Therefore the tweeter cannot be the issue here. It must have something to do with the inductor or caps in the crossover. I'm not quite sure how to test these components other than making sure they're not shorted or open. How much DC resistance or henries might one see on your typical bass cab crossover?

[lowell]

Unfortunately very unspecific in the manual:

"Excessive amounts of current will cause the bulb to act like a fuse and fail,
requiring replacement before the tweeter will function. Replacement bulbs
are available from our factory. In an emergency, an automobile dome light
bulb can be used to restore the system. To replace the bulb, simply remove
the screws that secure the connection plate to the back of the cabinet. Gently
pull the plate out and replace the bulb in its connection clips."

[J M Fahey]

Currently the tweeter is not connected because I do not have a fuse/bulb. Therefore the tweeter cannot be the issue here. It must have something to do with the inductor or caps in the crossover. I'm not quite sure how to test these components other than making sure they're not shorted or open. How much DC resistance or henries might one see on your typical bass cab crossover?

The crossover is fine.
The issue is the tweeter, or, to be precise, the lack of it.
It was electrically removed by the blown bulb.
The Eden manual does not specify it in numbers, but the key is "dome light" bulb (what I called an interior light)
If you have the old one, carry it with you to the car parts shop.
If not, measure contact diameter and separation in the holder, I guess there may be a few different sizes.
The actual value will be very close to what I suggested: 12V 15W

[Jazz P Bass]

Crossover Test

Thanks for the post JM. Currently the tweeter is not connected because I do not have a fuse/bulb. Therefore the tweeter cannot be the issue here. It must have something to do with the inductor or caps in the crossover. I'm not quite sure how to test these components other than making sure they're not shorted or open. How much DC resistance or henries might one see on your typical bass cab crossover?

You can check the crossover by applying a signal from the amplifier.
Hook up a dummy load in place of the tweeter & monitor it with a scope.
When you sweep the frequency you will see the signal gain strength.
That is the "crossover" point.
If there is anything wrong with the crossover (faulty components or solder connections)
it will be apparent on the scope.
What you do not want to see is the full amplitude of the bass (low frequency) signal going to the tweeter.
In this case there is something wrong with the crossover.

[g1]

JM, he said earlier that the problem was still there with a jumper for the bulb. So lack to tweeter should not be the cause. That's why I was thinking it might be coming from the head. I misread and thought he tried another class D head but this may not be the case. Still wondering if it does it with the amp moved away from the cab.
Edit: I have assumed that by now the tweeter has been checked and not found to be shorted or open. Lowell please verify.

[J M Fahey]

Lowell please verify.

*if* the tweeter is burnt it will *usually* be open, in that case a new bulb, fuse, or shorting wire will still do no good..
Anyway it's just a guess until Lowell checks.

[lowell]

*if* the tweeter is burnt it will *usually* be open, in that case a new bulb, fuse, or shorting wire will still do no good..
Anyway it's just a guess until Lowell checks.

I checked the tweeter. It reads ~1 megohm. The tweeter produces no sound though so it's definitely not working.

[Jazz P Bass]

Now you have to scope the frequency response of the crossover.
It may be a random failed tweeter.
Something made it fail.

[J M Fahey]

Now you have to scope the frequency response of the crossover.

This would be placed quite low in my list of suspects.

It may be a random failed tweeter.

*Might* be, why not?, although unlikely.

Something made it fail.

Sure: Slap/Funk/Thump happy bass player .... specially with a very high power head (and Class D to boot)
Burnt fuse + burnt tweeter have been *screaming* at us since day 1.
That it took Lowell 12 days to check it is not our fault.
You will need to repair that tweeter, I'm sure EDEN will sell you a replacement voice coil/diaphragm .
If desperate, it's possible that one is some relabelled Fostex tweeter, check their catalog; a new one *might* be cheaper than the EDEN replacement.
Good luck

[lowell]

It took me 12 days to check it because I would never suspect an OPEN voice coil to cause these ticking symptoms.... it's very odd and must be a weird Class D issue. Anyway I've ordered the tweeter from Eden. We'll see!

[Jazz P Bass]

The output filter on a class d amplifier is load dependant.
Kinda sucks but it is what it is.
By changing the output load (ie: open tweeter) some of the PMW may be getting through?