Eden D210XLT cabinet - fuse value?

[lowell]

Working on that JM.. thanks! This attenuator says 8ohms on the back of it. Should it measure 8ohms with a meter? Just wanna be sure, because this one is giving me odd readings (OL) from the middle lug to the out lugs.

[lowell]

Also what DC resistance would I expect to see on this crossover inductor? I'm getting a .2-.5 ohm reading on it.

[J M Fahey]

This attenuator says 8ohms on the back of it. Should it measure 8ohms with a meter? Just wanna be sure, because this one is giving me odd readings (OL) from the middle lug to the out lugs.

Then it's open, it may be the culprit.
Simplify the tests I suggested with an LPad substitute= wire 2 8 or 10 ohm, 10W or higher resistors in series, top to original top, bottom to negative, midpoint to tweeter hot, same as if you had a healthy LPad set on "5".
The cabinet should work and not tick.
If still ticking, then do all tests.
The inductor resistance you measured is fine.

[lowell]

I subbed 2 resistors for the Lpad and it still clicks. I connected the tweeter directly to the point where the top of the Lpad is... still clicking. I disconnected the tweeter... still clicking. Could it be that the inductor is shorted? Both caps are fine too.

[lowell]

JM I'll refer to post #45 and report back with results.

[lowell]

I disconnected the inductor and tweeter works and there is no clicking!

[lowell]

Can I get an inductor from Parts Express instead of call Eden again? What inductor if so?

[J M Fahey]

At last you found it.
There's 3 possibilities:
1) the inductor *may* be shorted .
Try to read its value, there must be some kind of inscription somewhere on it or the PCB, then order another one, same value
2) Buy a generic 4 or 5KHz crossover, place it (well, half of it, the highpass section) instead of the original one, check that it works, doesn't click, etc.
If all is well, proceed to repair the original fully.
Why do I suggest this apparently useless intermediate step?
Because *maybe* that Class D amplifier simply does not like inductors connected to its output, in any way.
Many times I chased non existent ghosts, where things were not damaged at all, but simply didn't like each other.
3) What *I*'d do if I had it on my bench, would be pulling that crossover and replacing it with a simple 1uFx250V polyester cap, into the LPad , through the fuse/lamp into the tweeter. Period.
In my experience, it works.
It's an only 6dB per octave crossover, but we rised the crossover point 2 octaves, and the final sound and power handling, *in practice*, will be reasonably usable.
Consider it a last ditch expedient, but I've done it before and it saved the night.
Good luck.

[lowell]

Well, I may do that. I may order an inductor too just to see for my own knowledge of it's a simple matter of *dislike.* Fyi I measured the inductor with my inductance meter and it only reads .03mH.

[g1]

As the tweeter and L-pad both likely died from overheating, the inductors turns may have also shorted due to overheating. This can be troublesome to diagnose (unless it visually looks burnt). Resistance wise it will read pretty much as a short whether good or shorted. .03mH seems quite low, my inductance meter reads .01uH with the leads shorted together. It is helpful with inductance to make notes of common values for various inductors so you have some ballpark values for reference.
Hopefully the class D is having an issue with a shorted inductor rather than inductors in general, be sure to post your findings!

[lowell]

What would be a guess at this inductor's value? Please refer to the schematic in post #41. There is a "150" underneath it but nothing ON the inductor itself.

[lowell]

At last you found it.
There's 3 possibilities:
1) the inductor *may* be shorted .
Try to read its value, there must be some kind of inscription somewhere on it or the PCB, then order another one, same value
2) Buy a generic 4 or 5KHz crossover, place it (well, half of it, the highpass section) instead of the original one, check that it works, doesn't click, etc.
If all is well, proceed to repair the original fully.
Why do I suggest this apparently useless intermediate step?
Because *maybe* that Class D amplifier simply does not like inductors connected to its output, in any way.
Many times I chased non existent ghosts, where things were not damaged at all, but simply didn't like each other.
3) What *I*'d do if I had it on my bench, would be pulling that crossover and replacing it with a simple 1uFx250V polyester cap, into the LPad , through the fuse/lamp into the tweeter. Period.
In my experience, it works.
It's an only 6dB per octave crossover, but we rised the crossover point 2 octaves, and the final sound and power handling, *in practice*, will be reasonably usable.
Consider it a last ditch expedient, but I've done it before and it saved the night.
Good luck.

JM wouldn't a 1uf cap be a 20kHz frequency?

1/(2pi*8*.000001)=20k

[Jazz P Bass]

What would be a guess at this inductor's value? Please refer to the schematic in post #41. There is a "150" underneath it but nothing ON the inductor itself.

15uh?
Here is a nifty crossover site.
Link:http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#nbpc

[g1]

Looking at the 3rd order high pass examples on the site JPB linked, it may well be 150uH (.15mH). This would make sense as far as the marking on the board.

[lowell]

Thanks for all the help guys. I learned a lot about crossovers and MORE about Class D with this repair. I ended up asking the customer if he wanted a legit inductor replacement at further expenses and longer turn around time and he said do what YOU would do. So I put a 1uf cap in series per JM's suggestion and we're rockin'.

I did however ask in a previous post if 20kHz was the right crossover point for a tweeter. ?? Seems high but hey these tweeters ARE teeny tiny.