Eden D210XLT cabinet - fuse value?

[J M Fahey]

Something like that.
Class D amplifiers (the ones I know) rely on a very poor output filter: a simple inductor in series with the speaker which is *assumed* resistive.
Not that much, we already know , but the error is normally on the safe side: at high frequencies (the ones that matter here), the speaker appears as a resistor (DC voice coil resistance) in series with a small inductor (voice coil inductance) which adds to the amp's one, so no big deal here.
*But* we add a crossover, and we are opening a can of worms: all kinds of inductors and capacitors get in the middle.
I guess if they are properly loaded, the crossover behaves as something relatively "transparent", meaning the amp "sees" the woofers at low frequencies, and the tweeter at high ones. Happy family.
But you open or short any speaker and the resistors and capacitors in that path rise their head.
Why a tick at so many seconds separation ?
Not the faintest idea.(1)
Just to check this, connect those tweeter wires to an external 8 ohm resistor or speaker and see that the ticking stops (or not).
Absolute worst case, and if the musician is *desperate* to play this weekend (my clients are *always* like that) let him play with the amp straight into the woofers (warn him: no crossover, not slap-friendly), while you get the spare parts from Eden (plus a couple spare bulbs/"fuses").
Post a couple tweeter pictures , specially from the driver, maybe somebody identifies it as a relabelled Fostex or whatever.
Good luck.
EDIT:
(1) *Maybe* the amp doesn't like that load and some protection circuit cuts in after a short time, and then resets itself.
I find it similar to the tick tick tick of improperly loaded SMPS.
After all, a Class D amplifier *is* just a big, audio modulated SMPS ... or so Steve Conner wants us to believe (if i'm not quoting wrong)

[g1]

Well once again I learn the hard way about assumptions. Lowell you got sidetracked on the ticking, originally you were looking for a fuse and the tweeter should have been the first thing to check.
It would seem from this that removing fuse/bulb or disconnecting tweet for players who don't like tweeters may cause weird problems with class D amps.
Thanks guys for the education.

[lowell]

The ticking does not stop with an 8ohm resistor clipped in. I guess it's still possible that inductance is important here. Thanks JM.

[J M Fahey]

Wait a minute:
1) You did connect an 8 ohm resistor to the wires that go from the crossover to the tweeter, right?
If so, fine.
2) I *hope* you also bridged that open circuit fuse holder with either the right lamp bulb, or a 1 Amp fuse, or a plain humble piece of wire.
*DID* you?
Because otherwise that 8 ohm resistor is *still* out of the circuit.

[lowell]

JM,
yes I connected the resistor correctly to the crossover, and I also had the tweeter disconnected while I did this.

[J M Fahey]

Fine, I thought so, but did you also connect/bridge across the fuse holder?
Did you put a lamp, fuse or wire across it?

[lowell]

I wired the resistor to the amp side of the fuse, then the other side of the resistor to the negative of the woofers - thus removing the fuse altogether. In other terms I used a wire.

[J M Fahey]

I wired the resistor to the amp side of the fuse, then the other side of the resistor to the negative of the woofers

That's not the way to do it.
You are assuming a certain crossover schematic none of us really knows.
You must reproduce the original connection.
You have a crossover board, two wires exit it and go to the tweeter, connect your resistor *there*.
Then bridge the fuse connector.
Then re-test.

[lowell]

I guess my post was unclear. I wired the resistor the same way the tweeter was wired, minus the fuse. So I wired one side of the resistor to the side of the fuseholder coming from the attenuator, and the other side of the resistor to the negative of the Woofer. (The tweeter negative went there as well)

[J M Fahey]

Trace and draw the crossover schematic.
Even better the whole cabinet schematic.
One image is worth 1000 words.

[lowell]

Here's a schematic of the cabinet. The new diaphragm for the tweeter is unmarked as far as polarity goes and I do not know how to check for this. Simply listening to the speakers I don't think it's possible to discern phasing. Obviously I cannot use a 9v battery to see which way the tweeter cone is moving. ??

I replaced the tweeter diaphram and the bulb. Still clicking. I believe that the Lpad is also not working. I'm stupid I should have checked that before. In any case I connected the amp to ONLY the tweeter and it works with no clicking. The same goes for when I connect the amp to ONLY the woofers. I removed the Lpad from the circuit and put an 8ohm resistor in as a substitute and still clicking.

[MarkusBass]

What exactly is Lpad? This potentiometer? I hope you just measured it. You can conduct several other tests. First you can connect it to another amp (non-class-D). Still clicing?
Then you can check what exactly is the source of the sound. Just cover the woofer (or tweeter) with a pillow. Does it change the sound? Or is the sound coming directly from the crossover?
The sound may be related to the amp (which I assume is class-D). Class-D amps are very sensitive to the speaker resistance. The speaker is part of the output filter and connecting first only the woofer and then woofer and the tweeter may change the load of the amp. That's why I suggest to check the cabinet with another amp. Do you have any valve amp for such a test?

Mark

[lowell]

Markus yes the Lpad is the attenuator for the tweeter. No the amp does not click with another amp, however there is no sound from the tweeter still. I'm now thinking that the caps, or at least one of them is open. I scoped the crossover and there is less than a volt making it to the tweeter. Where's a good supplier for crossover film caps... Parts Express?

[Jazz P Bass]

Markus yes the Lpad is the attenuator for the tweeter. No the amp does not click with another amp, however there is no sound from the tweeter still. I'm now thinking that the caps, or at least one of them is open. I scoped the crossover and there is less than a volt making it to the tweeter. Where's a good supplier for crossover film caps... Parts Express?

What frequency did the tweeter come on at?
1 volt at the tweeter is a valid observation only if you include the frequency & a reference voltage (such as the amplitude of the signal into the woofer @ 1K)
And yes, Parts Express is a good place to get nopolarized capacitors.

[J M Fahey]

Thanks for the schematic, now we can all refer to the same , (although you did not draw the bulb )
You can go backwards and soon you will find the culprit (you have only a couple parts there, for God's sake)
1) Connect the amplifier straight to the woofers. Play some low power music from your MP3 (1 W is enough).
Check: Do you hear sound? (hopefully yes) Does the amp click? (hopefully not)
2) Connect the tweeter: negative to speaker negative, positive straight to speaker positive, use just a couple pieces of wire, do not connect any part of the crossover to any speaker component.
Check: Do you hear sound? (hopefully yes) Does the amp click? (hopefully not) Highs should appear, showing the tweeter works.
3) Connect the tweeter using any 1 to 10uF capacitor in series with its hot lead, either plastic or bipolar electrolytic.
Check: Do you hear sound? (hopefully yes) Does the amp click? (hopefully not) You should still hear highs.
4) Repeat but using one of the crossover capacitors, pulled from its board (if glued, pull it anyway, you can re-glue it later)
Check as in 3).
5) Repeat adding the other capacitor in series.
Check as in 3).
6) Repeat adding the inductor from the union of both capacitors to negative.
Check as in 3).
7) Idem adding the fuse/lamp.
Check as in 3).
8) idem adding the L-Pad
Check as in 3).
9) Re mount parts in crossover PCB, Check as in 3) and if any problem appears now, grab a loupe and check for broken tracks or cracked solder.
This way you have *functionally* tested every part which could have failed, not needing LCR bridges and such.
Obviously, when any of these tests fails, you have the culprit.
Good luck.