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  • #91
    Originally posted by Chuck H View Post

    Yes, it seems the tone circuit is wired backward compared to typical. But why nitpick??? Are these not equivalent circuits?
    Yes. I guess that's the 50's wiring. When the tone pot is turned down the peak rises a bit as the volume is turned down. I think he has the yellow cloth wire wired to the bottom lug on the volume, though. He would need to move that to the top or middle lug. Since he'll be making changes, it's better not to have the cap floating where it could short somewhere. There may not be enough lead left on the cap to wire it from the middle lug to the case. In that case, I'd wire it across the bottom lugs, and ground the lower lug. For either of those options, he'd then need to unground the upper lug and connect the yellow cloth to it. Sorry to talk about you in third person Sea Cheif, but we're all very concerned about...Sea Chief.

    I have 330pF & 150k on one guitar. It drops very evenly to ~1/2 output from 10-5 with my 160pF cable, but it has A25ok pots. Perhaps the issue would be compounded with an A500k pot.

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    • #92
      Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
      The schematic you posted looks to be inaccurate relative to how the guitar is actually wired. In fact you have three capacitors there.?. Not sure what you're seeing.
      I see two capacitors (.047u and C?) and two resistors (47k and 100k)
      .047u instead of a hot pin on volume pot is soldered to a gnd pin volume pot (pink)
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      It's All Over Now

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      • #93
        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
        I can't really see what's happening with one end of the tone capacitor. The end with the gold, cloth braid lead on it. Where is that going?

        And I can't see any of the solder connections for the lower volume pot lug.

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        Hi Chuck.

        Damn I thought I redid this all correct, & was just expecting ideas on the cap values needing a tweak! sheesh kababs. I'm in a whole new -pot- of trouble then.

        Ok I'll post up a drawing of how they're wired. Tbh I cant recall what wiring method I used, but it was just a standard one I'm sure, as straightforward as possible.

        My wire colours are not helpful maybe, bc I just use the yellow now as it's all I have from my TR build.

        Thanks. SC

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        • #94
          Originally posted by Fluoroscope 5000 View Post

          Yes. I guess that's the 50's wiring. When the tone pot is turned down the peak rises a bit as the volume is turned down. I think he has the yellow cloth wire wired to the bottom lug on the volume, though. He would need to move that to the top or middle lug. Since he'll be making changes, it's better not to have the cap floating where it could short somewhere. There may not be enough lead left on the cap to wire it from the middle lug to the case. In that case, I'd wire it across the bottom lugs, and ground the lower lug. For either of those options, he'd then need to unground the upper lug and connect the yellow cloth to it. Sorry to talk about you in third person Sea Cheif, but we're all very concerned about...Sea Chief.

          I have 330pF & 150k on one guitar. It drops very evenly to ~1/2 output from 10-5 with my 160pF cable, but it has A25ok pots. Perhaps the issue would be compounded with an A500k pot.
          I appreciate your posts & concern! so do yap away call me a bozo I'm fine with it. What I think best to do is start again Flour500.

          I wonder if anyone can recognise what I might have attempted(!) with this.. 50's wiring rings a bell.

          I find only the neck pickup dark tho, I always have with teles. But I think they're bound to be being so far up, right close to neck- aren't they? The bridge pickup is too bright if anything.. but again that's teles with it being so far t'other way! I think the large difference, the mix of the two, gives the lovely tele signature 'honk' myself.. & its this position i tend to play 90% too, as to me, its the only setting giving the 'right ballpark' tonal balance.

          Great stuff.. just waiting on solder/ forgot to buy, so I can't do just yet. SC

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          • #95
            Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post

            I appreciate your posts & concern! so do yap away call me a bozo I'm fine with it. What I think best to do is start again Flour500.

            I wonder if anyone can recognise what I might have attempted(!) with this.. 50's wiring rings a bell.

            I find only the neck pickup dark tho, I always have with teles. But I think they're bound to be being so far up, right close to neck- aren't they? The bridge pickup is too bright if anything.. but again that's teles with it being so far t'other way! I think the large difference, the mix of the two, gives the lovely tele signature 'honk' myself.. & its this position i tend to play 90% too, as to me, its the only setting giving the 'right ballpark' tonal balance.

            Great stuff.. just waiting on solder/ forgot to buy, so I can't do just yet. SC
            Ah, you may want to wire a ~500k R from the bridge pickup switch lug to ground. The very low inductance cable I suggested might do the trick. Maybe try that first.

            The lower inductance of the two pickups generally dominates when they are combined, so it's mostly the neck with a little extra high harmonics from the bridge pickup, and the result of cancelations between them. It's also been described as "guttural".

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            • #96
              Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post
              I find only the neck pickup dark tho, I always have with teles. But I think they're bound to be being so far up, right close to neck- aren't they? The bridge pickup is too bright if anything..
              Same here, when I had a Tele I wired it so the tone pot only worked on the bridge position not on the N or N+B positions (it's possible with the standard Tele switch) Set the amp to sound good on N and N+B then roll back the tone pot to take the edge off the bridge.

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              • #97
                Chuck H Hi Chuck.

                Are these pics a bit clearer? Thanks SC

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                • #98
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                  • #99
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                    • Click image for larger version

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                      • That looks good to me. So a black wire comes from the middle V pot lug to the top T pot lug, and the yellow cloth wire from the cap goes to ground. You could just remove the yellow wire and ground the cap to the T pot case, as that case is already grounded to V pot.

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                        • Originally posted by Fluoroscope 5000 View Post
                          That looks good to me. So a black wire comes from the middle V pot lug to the top T pot lug, and the yellow cloth wire from the cap goes to ground. You could just remove the yellow wire and ground the cap to the T pot case, as that case is already grounded to V pot.
                          Understood Fluor500.. but I'll leave as is for now. So if I'm not mistaken, this is "50's wiring"?

                          If I dont have to redo it all.. great, I find these incredibly complicated & SO easy to get one thing wrong.. so I'll very likely mess it up redoing it.

                          So, my cap values: is this the only thing to consider then, re. any changes-? I'm a bit lost (understatement of the year) as to the current suggestions!!

                          If the addition of caps on the actual pickups, would make only tiny differences, having to remove strings & pickguard etc.. is too much for me right now. But when I change strings, in a month or so, I can revisit/ do then.

                          Thanks SC

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post

                            Understood Fluor500.. but I'll leave as is for now. So if I'm not mistaken, this is "50's wiring"?

                            If I dont have to redo it all.. great, I find these incredibly complicated & SO easy to get one thing wrong.. so I'll very likely mess it up redoing it.

                            So, my cap values: is this the only thing to consider then, re. any changes-? I'm a bit lost (understatement of the year) as to the current suggestions!!

                            If the addition of caps on the actual pickups, would make only tiny differences, having to remove strings & pickguard etc.. is too much for me right now. But when I change strings, in a month or so, I can revisit/ do then.

                            Thanks SC
                            Yeah, redo any wiring later if you want individual caps per pickup. Again, the caps would go from the individual pickup SWITCH lugs to a wire going into the T pot and out to ground. It's all done in on the control plate, but it won't be the 50's wiring that way. The switch would need separate common lugs for each rack to allow the 50's wiring with individual caps, and it doesn't look like it has that. You're good for now.

                            Any thoughts on the low C cable I suggested?

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                            • Without troubling with anything else right now I'll just address the initial troubles you started this thread for.

                              Do this and all your knob adjustment problems will go away. Note the change to the cap and resistor arrangement on the volume control. Don't bother trying this with your existing tone pot and don't bother trying this without scratching through the pot track as shown.

                              So, as you can see, you can leave things wired as they are for the most part. I've tried to make it as simple as possible to make the necessary changes.

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                              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                              "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                              You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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                              • Fluoroscope 5000 Ah ok so I put those pickup caps on the switch itself. That's good. I'll need to refresh myself on your cable suggestion/ I have to go over the replies again.. but as it was, getting into the aspects of cable resistance or capacitance, I was having trouble understanding.. is the the only thing.

                                So my 680pf cap (I think it was added to aid treble roll-off when turning down the vol-?) is actually ok then? & the rubbish quality green other one.. ok too?

                                thanks, SC

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