RH701 is 20K at 25C. You would need to remove it from the circuit in order to test it. What are the problem symptoms?
Ok, the value is correct.
Now I see VR401 are very bad.
I have the following problem, my sub stopped working after getting very hot, I opened it and changed some capacitors that were bad, I changed the output transistors and their drivers. taking the output signal before the relay, apparently this is correct, without DC, but the protection does not trigger the relay
I've fixed many KRK speakers and without exception the solution was to remove the black goop. Make sure none of it touches any component or jumper wire.
A heat gun helps loosen it, then scrape it off with a chopstick or whatever.
Ok, the value is correct.
Now I see VR401 are very bad.
I have the following problem, my sub stopped working after getting very hot, I opened it and changed some capacitors that were bad, I changed the output transistors and their drivers. taking the output signal before the relay, apparently this is correct, without DC, but the protection does not trigger the relay
Check the voltages on D701 and D706 anodes - they should be +15V. There are the signals that determine if the relay operates.
PS: Better check the +15V power supply. You should have +15V on both sides of R711 82 ohms.
Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.
I've fixed many KRK speakers and without exception the solution was to remove the black goop. Make sure none of it touches any component or jumper wire.
A heat gun helps loosen it, then scrape it off with a chopstick or whatever.
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