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Laney TT50H No Outout
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI see an R52 connected to the hum balance pot. Did you see it burn or could it have burnt before? Doesn't seem to be anything that would be related to C37.
Are power tubes installed? Any chance one of them has the locater pin broken off in the center of the base of the tube?
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Reinstalled new R52. Should I try to power on without any tubes(power & preamp)?Originally posted by ca7922303 View PostI actually saw what looked like the size of a cap light up when I turned it on. C2/C7 area of board. I've checked both el34s and they both have the locater pin glued back on.
Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Did you find something in that C2/C7 area? Or is that where R52 is? We don't have a board layout so without pictures we have no idea what is in that area.
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Then replace R52, and I would try it with just the preamp tubes. Do you have other power tubes to try? If someone glued the locator pin in the wrong position that could be the problem. Or are these power tubes the known working power tubes you mentioned at the start?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThen replace R52, and I would try it with just the preamp tubes. Do you have other power tubes to try? If someone glued the locator pin in the wrong position that could be the problem. Or are these power tubes the known working power tubes you mentioned at the start?
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThen replace R52, and I would try it with just the preamp tubes. Do you have other power tubes to try? If someone glued the locator pin in the wrong position that could be the problem. Or are these power tubes the known working power tubes you mentioned at the start?
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Ok, it m ready to test without power tubes installed. Am I able to power on and test without power tubes and without a load? I should know this but can't find anywhere on internet where both are uninstalled for testing? Thanks.
Without the power tubes installed the main supply voltage will rise. So check that the big filter caps (C22, C23) are not getting more than their rated voltage. This is the only problem that may arise when testing with power tubes removed. In this case it looks like C22 and C23 are rated for 500V. So as long as the voltage on them doesn't go over 500V you are ok to test with tubes removed.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Yes, if power tubes are removed, it can be run without a load.
Without the power tubes installed the main supply voltage will rise. So check that the big filter caps (C22, C23) are not getting more than their rated voltage. This is the only problem that may arise when testing with power tubes removed. In this case it looks like C22 and C23 are rated for 500V. So as long as the voltage on them doesn't go over 500V you are ok to test with tubes removed.
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Yes, if power tubes are removed, it can be run without a load.
Without the power tubes installed the main supply voltage will rise. So check that the big filter caps (C22, C23) are not getting more than their rated voltage. This is the only problem that may arise when testing with power tubes removed. In this case it looks like C22 and C23 are rated for 500V. So as long as the voltage on them doesn't go over 500V you are ok to test with tubes removed.5 Photos
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I suspect V5 has a heater to cathode short (bad tube).
It is a cathode follower circuit. The schematic has an error showing a resistor R20. There is no resistor, V5 pin1 goes straight to C37. That is what you had found earlier when you repaired the connection between C37 and V5 pin1.
Replace R52. If PS2 is bad it will need to be replaced as well. Bring it up on the variac with all tubes installed except V5. Keep checking that R52 is not overheating.
Remember with power tubes installed you will need the load connected.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI suspect V5 has a heater to cathode short (bad tube).
It is a cathode follower circuit. The schematic has an error showing a resistor R20. There is no resistor, V5 pin1 goes straight to C37. That is what you had found earlier when you repaired the connection between C37 and V5 pin1.
Replace R52. If PS2 is bad it will need to be replaced as well. Bring it up on the variac with all tubes installed except V5. Keep checking that R52 is not overheating.
Remember with power tubes installed you will need the load connected.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI suspect V5 has a heater to cathode short (bad tube).
It is a cathode follower circuit. The schematic has an error showing a resistor R20. There is no resistor, V5 pin1 goes straight to C37. That is what you had found earlier when you repaired the connection between C37 and V5 pin1.
Replace R52. If PS2 is bad it will need to be replaced as well. Bring it up on the variac with all tubes installed except V5. Keep checking that R52 is not overheating.
Remember with power tubes installed you will need the load connected.
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You will have to verify whether the smoke is coming from R52, or something else nearby. Measure voltage across R52, check both DC and AC volts. Variac up to 60V, same as when you noticed smoke.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostYou will have to verify whether the smoke is coming from R52, or something else nearby. Measure voltage across R52, check both DC and AC volts. Variac up to 60V, same as when you noticed smoke.
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