That looks a lot better with 2 matching speakers. That squarish speaker you took out seems a bit familiar, maybe a studio monitor, but can't be sure.
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Probably.
AFAIK original ones were made by Pyle (which also suppied those in the 4 x 10" cabinets), but of course any day of the week they can switch to Eminence.
Any codes printed on those speaker frames?Juan Manuel Fahey
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I have one, but you'll have to buy the whole amp that it's in.
Seriously though, Mouser has a host of Molex connectors. If you get out your calipers and do some measuring, you can probably find a connector that will work. Then, it's just a matter of adding the wiring."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by sweatyk View Post
says:
1056 Fisher Speakers 1059 Channel Speakers 1098 Pyle Speakers 1113 Acoustic Fiber Sound Speakers 1149 Curtis Mathes Speakers 1191 Micro Magnet Speakers Juan Manuel Fahey
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Searching for various combinations of the squarish speaker brought this.
Quite close, only it´s Panasonic Japanese.
That said, that speaker might have been used in a "USA model/specs" Cabinet (Hi Fi? / Studio monitor?) , I have seen power transformers labelled US - USA - EU - AU - UK and that means specs or Electrical Safety approval, or intended market, not necessarily Country of Origin or Manufacture.
Also a US made speaker , specially from the 80´s, "should" show an EIA code, this one does not.
An extra detail: **magnet backplate** IS Asian.
Traditional speaker makers (US - EU - even my own) cut/stamp backplate from a thick cold rolled steel sheet, punch a hole in it, lathe turn the polepiece out of a cold rolled steel bar and join both together by various mechanical methods, sometimes pressing (with a huge hydraulical press) polepiece into a same diameter hole (say 1.5" as in those Pyle speakers) , often "nailing" them together by hitting them with a pointed hard steel tool so they expand a little and can´t move any more, similar to primer crimping in MilSpec ammo , both techniques clearly seen here, while Asians forge the whole shebang out of a large ball of molten steel, so "no joints".
Also edges look rounded like pressed dough (what they are,only it´s steel dough); traditional manufacturing shows ragged punched edges or , best case, same but turned smooth in more expensive speakers.
Makes easy to tell UK vs China Celestion,by the way.
Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostI have one, but you'll have to buy the whole amp that it's in.
Seriously though, Mouser has a host of Molex connectors. If you get out your calipers and do some measuring, you can probably find a connector that will work. Then, it's just a matter of adding the wiring.
what term would you use when searching for this? I've put in female pin socket, molex but can't seem to find one like this. I know it has to be out there. Anyone care to help a brother out?
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Here's a start. You'll have to measure some things and update the search to see if they have what you need.
https://www.mouser.com/Molex/Connect...yvsm2dZ1ytkls2
"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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The white connector is an insulation displacement connector or IDC. The IDC has special pins with little sharp edged slots in them. A special press is used to shove the insulated wire down into the slot, and contact is made. You won't have such a press. SO when I encounter this I use connectors from the same series but that use crimp-on pins that are then slipped into the plastic housing. That connector is in the Molex KK-156 series. You need a four slot housing. (Secret tip: if you can only find a ten space, you can cut off a few spaces from the end...instant four.) You will need a crimper, and while there are wonderful expensive ones, my cheap Waldom one has worked just fine for me for decades.
Like this one:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...iABEgIJ1fD_BwE
Mouser and I am sure others sell the individual stuff, but they also sell small kits, which include a housing or two and a handful of crimp pins
Here is a four slot kit from Mouser. I am sure other Molex dealers also sell such kits.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GkST%252BII%3DEducation is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Correct me if I'm wrong on the speaker connection. The yellow and red wire connect to the - side of the speakers and the brown and orange connect to the +.......or do I have that backwards? On the schematic it has the red and yellow going to a .33 ohm resistor to ground (R127 & R133).
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostThe white connector is an insulation displacement connector or IDC. The IDC has special pins with little sharp edged slots in them. A special press is used to shove the insulated wire down into the slot, and contact is made. You won't have such a press. SO when I encounter this I use connectors from the same series but that use crimp-on pins that are then slipped into the plastic housing. That connector is in the Molex KK-156 series. You need a four slot housing. (Secret tip: if you can only find a ten space, you can cut off a few spaces from the end...instant four.) You will need a crimper, and while there are wonderful expensive ones, my cheap Waldom one has worked just fine for me for decades.
Like this one:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...iABEgIJ1fD_BwE
Mouser and I am sure others sell the individual stuff, but they also sell small kits, which include a housing or two and a handful of crimp pins
Here is a four slot kit from Mouser. I am sure other Molex dealers also sell such kits.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GkST%252BII%3D
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