Originally posted by catalin gramada
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EL34 Grid Stopper resistor
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Originally posted by Jon Snell View PostSeem to be wandering about all over the place.
The original question was ... ? ... no idea, it has gone on too long and is hitting deaf ears. From memory it was adding a grid stopper but there already is one and now it seems it is oscillating ..... why are you disconnecting the heater supplies?
I'm gone.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Yes, I believe C37 which is near R43. I'll send you a link for schematic I have.
Since the amp is a crowded PCB, dual sided with SMD on one side and board mounted sockets there's not much to be done about grounding and lead dress. So I suspect the power supply caps for the preamp may not be decoupling signal well enough. It looks like the power supply nodes pair up out of phase circuits, but there's still some switching I can't quite follow in their crappy schematic. So it's still possible that some circuit is being cascaded with an op amp or channels are stacked to form gain circuits and this could cause like phase circuits to share a power supply/signal decoupling node. Since the amp may be over twenty years old it might be time to replace more of the power supply filters.
Short of that, instability at extreme settings isn't all that weird for amps from that era. Most leaving the factory are fine. Some may not have been. And a little age on components can sometimes change things just enough to make an amp that only borders on being stable become unstable. I've seen a couple of amps from that era that did just that. Bone stock and worked fine, then became unstable at extreme settings. In your case I still suspect the preamp power supply filters for the moment. But when I was dealing with these problems the amps weren't as old as yours is now. My fix was to find a place in the signal chain where adding a small value capacitor to ground or a capacitor and resistor in series to ground would stop the oscillation. I had to experiment with values to make as little audible change as possible. in the two cases I can remember there was no audible change to one and no significant audible change to the other.
Others may key in with better ideas."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
Interesting. There seems to be two C37's and one isn't a power supply cap. But I'll assume you did replace the C37 that is a power supply cap. Did you replace this cap because it was bad? Did replacing it solve a problem? I ask because it could be relative to the condition of the other caps in the power supply.
Since the amp is a crowded PCB, dual sided with SMD on one side and board mounted sockets there's not much to be done about grounding and lead dress. So I suspect the power supply caps for the preamp may not be decoupling signal well enough. It looks like the power supply nodes pair up out of phase circuits, but there's still some switching I can't quite follow in their crappy schematic. So it's still possible that some circuit is being cascaded with an op amp or channels are stacked to form gain circuits and this could cause like phase circuits to share a power supply/signal decoupling node. Since the amp may be over twenty years old it might be time to replace more of the power supply filters.
Short of that, instability at extreme settings isn't all that weird for amps from that era. Most leaving the factory are fine. Some may not have been. And a little age on components can sometimes change things just enough to make an amp that only borders on being stable become unstable. I've seen a couple of amps from that era that did just that. Bone stock and worked fine, then became unstable at extreme settings. In your case I still suspect the preamp power supply filters for the moment. But when I was dealing with these problems the amps weren't as old as yours is now. My fix was to find a place in the signal chain where adding a small value capacitor to ground or a capacitor and resistor in series to ground would stop the oscillation. I had to experiment with values to make as little audible change as possible. in the two cases I can remember there was no audible change to one and no significant audible change to the other.
Others may key in with better ideas.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Removed V6 and there is no red plating and no output."If it measures good and sounds bad, it is bad. If it measures bad and sounds good, you are measuring the wrong things."
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Not sure what you mean by shunt it's input to the ground? Can you give more detail. Thanks.Last edited by catalin gramada; 03-06-2022, 06:38 PM."If it measures good and sounds bad, it is bad. If it measures bad and sounds good, you are measuring the wrong things."
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You have a cap over there c36 22n/ 400v you may shunt the input before those cap not directly from pin 2 c36 have one end tied to pin 2 and one end to r47 220k . You may tie a wire between r47 / c36 to the ground to be more precisely. Do not tie pin 2 directly to the ground. You may tie through c36 capacitor. Or you may tie a wire from pin 2 to any cap you have on hand then to ground. You may shunt the ac input not the dc bias voltage of v6 which is elevated build it.Last edited by catalin gramada; 03-06-2022, 06:56 PM."If it measures good and sounds bad, it is bad. If it measures bad and sounds good, you are measuring the wrong things."
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Originally posted by catalin gramada View PostCheck if is a track on board between red mark point to r47. measure capacitance between red mark and yellow mark. Not sure where c36 is placed on the board
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Originally posted by catalin gramada View PostCheck if is a track on board between red mark point to r47. measure capacitance between red mark and yellow mark. Not sure where c36 is placed on the board
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Best I can tell from schematic and board, that is c36 between red and yellow marks on photo."If it measures good and sounds bad, it is bad. If it measures bad and sounds good, you are measuring the wrong things."
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