Since bulbs start with a low resistance, and then it rises as the current heats up the filament, you could try adding a small series resistance. Just a thought.![]()
I'm starting my first winder and I have a newbie question.
I pulled a motor from an old sewing machine and wired up a dimmer switch bought from the local home improvement store for a speed control. The dimmer starts, stops, and controls the speed like I wanted it to but it doesn't really start from 0 rpm.
There seems to be a threshold where the dimmer is not supplying enough juice to make the motor turn and then once the dial is turned beyond that point, the motor "jumps" to a start, probably a little faster than I'd like my first few winds to be.
Do dimmer switches have different ratings and should I be using one rated higher or lower ?
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
Steve
Since bulbs start with a low resistance, and then it rises as the current heats up the filament, you could try adding a small series resistance. Just a thought.![]()
Last edited by David Schwab; 02-04-2010 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Fixed name on link for clarity
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
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I stopped by harbor freight tonight and got the motor speed control. Hopefully I'll be able to test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the advice guys.
Hey David, if you don't use a dimmer or this motor speed control, what do you use ? Custom made circuit ?
Steve
Well I have a Schatten winder that had a speed control built in, of course. But that's broken, so now I power the winder with a variable speed hand drill. It was supposed to be temporary until I fixed the speed control, but it works so well I just left it that way.
I'm building a new CNC controlled winder, so I'm not in a rush to fix the Schatten.
If you use a sewing machine motor, why not use the speed pedal they come with? My very first winder was like that.
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
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I use this same speed control on my sewing machine motor. When I switch from OFF to VARIABLE, the motor runs very slowly. As I turn up the knob the speed gradually increases all the way to max rpm. Overall, it's very controllable. Now I just need a reliable counter and I'm all set.
Try using both.
On my 2nd winder I used a dimmer to controll the top speed (like an RPM limiter) then inserted the original sewing machine foot pedal into the motor circuit and use that for starting-up and spinning-down. With both in play the footpedal can turn my winder's bobbin flange at a crawl if I want it too, then when I have it pressed all the way down the dimmer controll the top speed, it works well.
I suppose a lot of it depends on how much pulley offset you have on yours. Mine was like a 3" bobbin flange pulley size driven by a 3/4" drive pulley on the motor, it think my particular motor was a 5000 RPM sewing machine motor like this one:
IIRC, the Leslie motors are the old "brushless" type like in old record players and such, I'm not certain but I don't think you can use this type of speed controller with brushless motors.
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Last edited by RedHouse; 02-25-2010 at 09:56 PM.
Instead of a dimmer, use a ceiling fan speed control. (looks just like a dimmer) It is made for a motor load and will work better than a dimmer. In fact some dimmers won't work with a motor. It should work as a leslie speed control too. If it's a brushless motor then it's an induction motor just like a fan motor.
Roadhouse Pickups
Be careful. Ceiling fan speed controls are a switch and a handful of capacitors that are inserted in series. The motor must be induction for this to work, while sewing-machine motors are universal wound.
Brushless DC motors contain an electronic controller plus a form of induction motor, so a ceiling fan controller probably won't work at all, and may damage something.
There are lamp dimmers that work well with universal-wound motors. Lutron is a good brand.
Feeding the motor through a fullwave rectifier bridge greatly helps at low speeds. Put the bridge between the dimmer and the motor with the AC side towards the dimmer.
I didn't have any issues using the fan speed control with the sewing machine motor. I have since moved away from that type of setup however. Is the Leslie motor DC?
I think using a rectifier is probably a very good idea with a universal motor. I may have to pull that out of the closet and hook one up.
Roadhouse Pickups
I'm not sure if this is helpful to anyone at all but after much experimentation I've found that these 450 watt light dimmer's work really well on vertically every AC motor I've tried and it provides great speed control although the brush-less motors tent to hum a little at low speed.
kind regards to all
Walt
Last edited by RedHouse; 02-27-2010 at 03:40 PM. Reason: typo's
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
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I don't recall exactly why it works, but I did read this in a textbook on motors, and my experiments did show that DC worked better. I think that it will have to do with the self-inductance of the motor windings.
Well, an "AC/DC" motor is not an "AC motor", it's a universal-wound DC motor with laminated iron so it won't overheat when fed with AC. That's what is meant by "universal".and what effect does DC have on an AC motor at low speeds?
A universal wound DC motor has field winding and rotor winding in series, so the direction of rotation does not change if the polarity of the supply is reversed. To reverse, one must rewire the motor.
Try downloading again from the original post. I replaced the file.Also your PDF maker seemed to cut off some of your verbiage, this is how it displays on my screen (Acrobat-9):
Is it really a brushless DC motor? They are expensive. Small DC motors can have brushes inside that are not externally visible.
But to answer your question, I would be surprised if a brushless DC motor was happy being driven by any kind of lamp dimmer.
Standard 110 volt lamp dimmers put out far too much voltage for such a motor. One can get lamp dimmers intended to drive low-voltage (12 volts being common) halogen lamps through a transformer. Such a dimmer with transformer and rectifier bridge could work, but this is getting expensive.
I would replace the blown rectifier with an electrically larger component first.
Actually, Schatten may offer repair and/or parts, given that it appears to be a design problem.
.......my gaussmeter project..... ........
.......first pickup with my cnc winder........
.... NEW cnc pickup winder user manual.....
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
Depends on the controller board.
Actually, doesn't the Schatten run off a wall wart? If so, the voltage will be low, and direct connection to a 110 volt dimmer will cause sparks and fire.
I've never seen the Schatten, so I'd like to second Elpro's request for photos.
You see? this is what Virtually happens when your eye sight begins to Virtually fail you and spell check Virtually gets it wrong. Sorry for the typo.
Back on subject, for DC motors between 12 and 35 Volts I have found that a simple pulse width modulator works really well and provides good motor speed control. they are easy to build from a kit or purchase from E_Bay.
Here are a couple I made, the cheep one is good for 12-15 volts DC.
The other is good for 12-35 volts DC
DC Motor Controller Kit (K3070) | Dick Smith Online Store
Bi-Directional DC Motor Speed Controller Kit
I hope this is helpful.
regards
Walt
Oh yeah... duh...
Here's some I took a while back. When I get a chance I'll take the non working speed controller board out and take a photo of it. I had replaced the motor, which turned out to be fine.I've never seen the Schatten, so I'd like to second Elpro's request for photos.
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
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The LM 317 is an adjustable voltage regulator. You can get from 1.5 to 35V at up to 1A. So it doesn't look like a PWM based speed control but a variable voltage controller. I can't really imagine why he did it that way. Looking at his PCB it doesn't seem like electronics is his forté.
There should be a good sized filtering cap(s) somewhere in there which I'm not seeing..
The + and - stamped into the back of the motor case tells me that's a DC motor, probably 12V.
How many volts is the wall wart putting out?
Mabuchi only makes DC motors, they are the worlds #1 producer according to wikipedia.
I looked through their online catalogue and couldn't find one that looked like this.
If you know the dia and the voltage, you can look it up here:
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US...ct/p_0303.html
Last edited by David King; 03-01-2010 at 07:51 AM.
.... this is a simple pwm controller
DPRG: A Simple PWM Circuit Based on the 555 Timer
.......my gaussmeter project..... ........
.......first pickup with my cnc winder........
.... NEW cnc pickup winder user manual.....
That probably explains why the thing failed.
I think there is. I'll have to open the thing up and take a photo. I broke the switch on the pot it used, so I replaced the pot with a new one and a seperate toggle switch. So now the board is hanging from the pot.There should be a good sized filtering cap(s) somewhere in there which I'm not seeing..
9V, 500mA.The + and - stamped into the back of the motor case tells me that's a DC motor, probably 12V.
How many volts is the wall wart putting out?
I had the part number for the motor. It's on the parts list in the instruction manual. I couldn't find that motor listed anywhere. When I got a new motor from Schatten it wasn't very expensive... maybe $12. I don't remember.Mabuchi only makes DC motors, they are the worlds #1 producer according to wikipedia.
I looked through their online catalogue and couldn't find one that looked like this.
If you know the dia and the voltage, you can look it up here:
Search by Required Motor Performance | MABUCHI MOTOR
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
LM317 is a very widely used regulator chip. The problem is that the circuit isn't designed to handle the load imposed by the motor in practical use:
If one stalls the motor by preventing bobbin rotation, the current will shoot up. This is perfectly normal, and must be accommodated.
DC motors can generate large voltage spikes, which spikes can blow unprotected solid state devices. Are there any protective components in parallel with the motor? (A capacitor helps, but isn't usually enough.)
Motors don't really need their DC to be clean, so there may well not be such a capacitor.I think there is [a big filter capacitor]. I'll have to open the thing up and take a photo.
Probably a 6-volt motor. Motors are not that fussy.[wallwart is] 9V, 500mA.
That's a motor from an old cassette deck, with a built-in speed regulator. I remember them from dismantling old stereos as a kid.
The actual motor is in a rubber mount inside the can, and the little round regulator PCB is soldered to the back of it. Maybe that's what has blown and you can bypass it.
"Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
When you say lamp dimmer are you talking about those floor lamp dimmers that you plug the lamp into or are you talking about something along the lines of a florescent safe light dimmer? If it's the floor variety then it's just a matter of wiring a sewing machine motor up to a plug and plugging that into the dimmer, right?
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