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Thread: EchoPex Rubber Wheel will not engage

  1. #1
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    EchoPex Rubber Wheel will not engage

    EchoPex Rubber Wheel will not engage.

    After trouble shooting a smoke issue and replacing the resistor the machine powered up but now the rubber wheel will not set against the motor spindle. The wheel turns but will not pull the tape because there isn't enough pressure.
    Once again I must turn to my trusted experts for help.
    Thank You guys in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Is the spring pulling the roller arm?
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Thanks ENZO,,,,,I didn't see a spring...Could it be missing?
    I have to look at a picture of a EP..

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    I changed the Solenoid with from a parts machine I have. No change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankrocks View Post
    I changed the Solenoid with from a parts machine I have. No change.
    Is this the EP-3 with the burned resistor in the solenoid circuit? Did you figure out why the resistor burned?

    Is your parts machine the same as the one you are fixing? The solenoid circuit changed from the earlier ones with an high voltage solenoid to a 24 volt one.

    If you pull on the lever that connects to the solenoid, will the idler wheel contact the capstan?

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    Hi Bill,
    Yes , This is the one with the burnt resistor. I didn't determine the cause. I replaced the resistor in a Hail Mary attempt and crossed my fingers. I am a novice when it comes to trouble shooting but have the mechanical skills to do the repairs.

    Yes, When I Pull on the lever the capstan will make contact. Then when i let go it will not stay engaged.
    I see what you are saying about the solenoid circuit. The only difference I see is the caps. The solenoids look identical to me? How would I know if they are not a match.
    The parts machine with a serial # of 2k has a Square style cap and the Machine That I ant attempting to repair is a early 1K serial #. This machine has a large round cap.
    Is that where the problem may be?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankrocks View Post
    I see what you are saying about the solenoid circuit. The only difference I see is the caps. The solenoids look identical to me? How would I know if they are not a match.
    The second version of the circuit was a lower voltage version and I don't think that the solenoids are interchangeable. If both basic circuits are similar then i would guess that both have the higher voltage version.

    If the mechanical part of the idler wheel is free and working, then you need to find out why the solenoid is not pulling it in. The solenoid is nothing more than an electromagnet. A coil of wire that pulls in a metal rod.

    Do you have a voltmeter and do you know how to use it? If you do, read the dc voltage from one end of the solenoid coil to the other. I would guess there should be maybe around 175 volts dc.

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    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    I don't remember, is the solenoid plunger directly connected to the wheel arm? or does it pull on a spring? In either case, SOMETHING pulls the arm up, and that is what you have to correct.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Question EchoPlex Solenoid

    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    I don't remember, is the solenoid plunger directly connected to the wheel arm? or does it pull on a spring? In either case, SOMETHING pulls the arm up, and that is what you have to correct.
    From What I am guessing is that the Solenoid pulls the shaft inwards. This in turn keeps tension on the attached Bar/Plate that the capstan roller is assembled to.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015-10-17-08.47.42.jpg   2015-10-17-08.48.03.jpg   2015-10-17-08.50.18.jpg  

  10. #10
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Right, I am aware of the solenoid, but was not sure whether the solenoid was directly linked to the arm or if there was a stiff spring linking the solenoid to the arm. Certain models have a lever covering the input jack, and when you move it aside to plug in, that pulls the arm in tight with a spring. The solenoid models are different in the lever is not there. I cannot see the link at the end of the solenoid plunger in your photos.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Does the solenoid pull in at all?

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    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Well, yes, that is a good question too.

    Power off, you can push the solenoid plunger in with your fingers. Do that, does it pull the pinch roller up to the tape?

    We need to know those two things: does the solenoid energize, and does it activate the wheel arm.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Exactly, That is what is happening. It will not engage. IThe only way I can get the machine to pull the tape is by holding the lever so that the wheel /Capstan connects to pull the tape. As soon as I release the pressure (my hand) from the wheel. It will not stay engaged. I am trying to understand how the solenoid works electronically to engage the piston to supply constant pressure on the capstan lever.
    Will take more pictures tomorrow to post.

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    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Did you try what I suggested? Power off and push the solenoid plunger into the solenoid by hand. Does that move the roller arm or not?

    In your photo I connect see a link on the end of the plunger.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Yes, But when I let go the wheel disengages.

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    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    OK, so the problem is the solenoid does not energize, rather than a mechanical problem.

    I don't recall the other thread, did we determine you had a 24vDC solenoid or a 120vAC solenoid?

    With the thing powered up, measure voltage across the coil of the solenoid. Is there 24vDC? Is there more like 140vDC? Or is there little or no voltage there? with power off, you can also measure the copil resistance to see if it has opened.

    Once you have determined which schematic fits yours, and the serial number should settle that, the solenoid circuit is very simple, just a constant power supply.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    Old thread... Did you ever figure out what was the solution, with this problem?
    If you have an EP3 then the solenoid is indeed a 24VDC type. I found a bad rectifier, after doing a complete cap job on one...
    I did replace both inline rectifiers while I was in there...

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