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Thread: Tools to bevel a rod magnets

  1. #1
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    Tools to bevel a rod magnets

    I want to make a bevel on a flat top rod magnets, what best tools/machine do I need?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    marcfrom,
    Best depends a lot of your resources but I bevel them using a portable electric drill and a cheap imported 6" grinder. I set it up so the the magnet and grinder are spinning in the same direction -where they hit they are moving in opposite directions. They come out looking pretty rough and the magnets wreck havoc on the face of the grind stone. Ideally you want a very light touch and that means the drill wants to have a low mass. A flexible shaft handpiece with a small 3 jaw chuck or collet chuck would be best. If the drill is heavy it will cause the magnet to bounce off the grinder and give you a very rough surface. If you have a steady hand you could spin the magnets in a wood dowel holder using your fingers and get excellent results.

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    It seem very difficult to be regular, have a right angle with this method.

    Is there not a conical tool in which the object is rotated and bevel with the right angle?

  4. #4
    Woodgrinder/Pickupwinder copperheadroads's Avatar
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    A Bench grinder with the rod magnet in a drill for about 1 second . at a 45 degree angle ............... doesn't get any easier than that .
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcfrom View Post
    It seem very difficult to be regular, have a right angle with this method.

    Is there not a conical tool in which the object is rotated and bevel with the right angle?
    The problem is that AlNiCo is a very hard material and you would need to attack it with something like diamond encrusted cup with 45º sides. This tool may exist but it would be slow and would probably become consumed due to the iron content in the magnets which quickly binds with the carbon in the diamonds at fairly low temperatures (300º F) iirc. Beveling at home works out fine if you are just doing a few at a time. If you are needing lots of them then it's far better /cheaper to order them bevelled to your specifications from the factory.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member jack briggs's Avatar
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    hand drill and bench grinder

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    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    Well I'm not a pickup guy, but... I'm pretty handy at figuring out how to manage projects with what amounts to stone knives and bones IMHO copperhead and Jack have it right. I was going to suggest it but then they covered the method before I finished reading the thread. Put the magnet rod in the chuck and spin it against an abrasive (or a spinning abrasive wheel). Easy to see and monitor too It might be a good idea to wrap a strip of masking tape around the magnet rod before you chuck it just to minimize any potential chips.
    "The man is an incompetent waste of human flesh. He should donate his organs now to someone who might actually make good use of them." The Dude re: maybe I shouldn't say, but his name rhymes with Trump

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  8. #8
    Woodgrinder/Pickupwinder copperheadroads's Avatar
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    The grinding wheel in my bench grinder is rather coarse & leaves the magnets a tad rough ,i guess i could buy a finer grit wheel . but i use one of those rubber impregnated polishing wheel for the dremel .which is clamped in my vise while running so i do this method at once . About a second or so on the grinder then i turn & a few seconds on the polishing wheel while still chucked in the drill & spinning & it polishes the bevel .
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    CNC Trial by Fire kayakerca's Avatar
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    A drill with a hand tightening friction chuck and a bench top sander (I use the disk not the belt). About 2 seconds at a 45° angle. Fast. Nice angle. Nice smooth finish. Very consistent results from rod magnet to rod magnet after you get the feel for it.
    Take Care,

    Jim. . .
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  10. #10
    ToneOholic! big_teee's Avatar
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    I chuck the magnets in a drill.
    I use a varible speed 5 inch hand grinder, with a fiber wheel.
    Last edited by big_teee; 07-06-2017 at 05:21 AM.
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  11. #11
    Supporting Member John_H's Avatar
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    I chuck them into the drill, and use a disk sander with 220 grit. Grinding wheels can be a little bit brutal.
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    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    IME you can do OK with courser wheels by using a light touch at the finish. You still need to fine polish, but a lighter touch at the end of the initial grinding reduces time on the finer finishing.
    Last edited by Chuck H; 07-06-2017 at 11:26 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kayakerca View Post
    A drill with a hand tightening friction chuck and a bench top sander (I use the disk not the belt). About 2 seconds at a 45° angle. Fast. Nice angle. Nice smooth finish. Very consistent results from rod magnet to rod magnet after you get the feel for it.
    It seems to be a good method, the bench top sander has a angle guide. But do you use a variable speed machine? What grid?

  14. #14
    CNC Trial by Fire kayakerca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcfrom View Post
    It seems to be a good method, the bench top sander has a angle guide. But do you use a variable speed machine? What grid?
    My drill is variable speed, but I just set it the high range and run it full speed. The grit of the disk sander I can't remember off hand, but no, I don't adjust the table to a 45° angle I just eyeball it. With the drill whirling and the disk sander whirling it only takes a couple seconds tops to get the bevel finish I'm looking for. Once I'm in a bit of a groove, it takes maybe 5 - 10 seconds per rod magnet from start of one to start of the next.
    Take Care,

    Jim. . .
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    I use a green grit wheel in a Dremel/proxxon held in a vice and spin the magnet in a battery drill.

    Cheers

    Andrew

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    Ok,

    Same technic but with a differents tools

  17. #17
    Supporting Member mozz's Avatar
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    I have done some on the bench top grinder holding the magnets in my fingers. Would a file work with the magnets in a drill chuck? What about one of these deburring reloading tools? I have one will have to try it out. Anyone measured guass before and after doing this?
    465641.jpg

  18. #18
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mozz View Post
    Anyone measured guass before and after doing this?
    I thought about that too. I make knives sometimes and some austenitic steels will spot harden due to grinding heat even if you're carful and water dipping. So the contact patch when grinding clearly gets very hot. And alnico is surely harder than any of the annealed steels I've used. Since the grinding wheel position is stationary it might be worth setting up so the lower third of the wheel is in a water bath.?.
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  19. #19
    Supporting Member mozz's Avatar
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    I was thinking the opposite. If the alnico gets damaged or weak, wouldn't that kind of lower the guass and "age" the magnets? Maybe it would even concentrate the unbeveled part? I think some winders intentionally weaken the magnets, or so they say. One set of single coils i made for a customer, i beveled for the first time, the guy loved them.
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  20. #20
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    You might be on to something. But I think the lack of control over the "aging" when hot spots are random with hand work might be harder to replicate.?. I (if I were a pickup maker) would want to eliminate variables to create a consistent and controlled result. YMMV
    "The man is an incompetent waste of human flesh. He should donate his organs now to someone who might actually make good use of them." The Dude re: maybe I shouldn't say, but his name rhymes with Trump

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