Daily Run Down, & Round Table-P/Us

[big_teee]

I have done some of the 3 and 3 E,A,D with A5 but got kind of lackluster response on them. I only did a couple of them. I think the customers like all A2 or all A5 better. It was a small sample and I thought they sounded good, but what do they know anyhow, the ones that tried them. Just my 2 cents on it.

I have the 2 SCs made.
I made them with A5s on the E & A, Gaussed just a bit stronger than the A2s.
I have to build the bridge Blade P/U next.
I won't test them until I get the Pick Guard finished.
T

[Stratz]

Any of you guys make any Strat Coils with A2s and A5s together.
I am thinking of making a neck and middle with A5s on the E, & A, and A2 on the rest.
I have a A2 Set, and I like the 4 High strings fine.
I think the two big Strings would benefit from the A5s?
I'm going to put a white Blade in the bridge position.
T

I like the sound of the A5/A2 split 3 and 3 but much prefer all A2 for HF Strat neck pickups.
Gauss on both at 600-700


I was talking with my Father on the phone last week and we talked a little about pickup building and about the last spool of old Essex PE that he gave me. I joked that since he retired and moved away that I no longer had access to decent micrometer. When I came home from work on Friday there was a package inside my porch and inside it was a Mitutoyo 293-340 micrometer. He wrote in the note that he preferred his old vernier micrometers so he didn't use it much. I don't think he ever used it other than probably just to try it out because it looks brand new.

After a couple of hours of measuring some spools of old #42 PE and HF, I have found single build wire in the .030" range and heavy build in the .027" range.
I think that sometimes it's probably better not to have a decent micrometer and instead just trust my counter and my ears




Rob.

[LtKojak]

When I came home from work on Friday there was a package inside my porch and inside it was a Mitutoyo 293-340 micrometer.

Oh, man; that thing is a JEWEL!

Enjoy it in good health.

[RedHouse]

...After a couple of hours of measuring some spools of old #42 PE and HF, I have found single build wire in the .030" range and heavy build in the .027" range. I think that sometimes it's probably better not to have a decent micrometer and instead just trust my counter and my ears

[ATTACH=CONFIG]20395[/ATTACH]

Yeah, the other thing about a decent micrometer is you're only measuring the total OD of the wire.

With wire, the actual copper inside vary's, and the insulation thickness varies, but the mic cannot tell you which is which so even though one has a very nice tool, it doesn't actually tell us the state of the current wire sample.

As for myself, I've stopped worrying so much about directly measuring the wire and concentrated more on developing methods to alter my winding paramaters to "adjust" for different batches of wire.

[ReWind]

Yeah, the other thing about a decent micrometer is you're only measuring the total OD of the wire.

With wire, the actual copper inside vary's, and the insulation thickness varies, but the mic cannot tell you which is which so even though one has a very nice tool, it doesn't actually tell us the state of the current wire sample.

Just a thought - Could one measure the wire, then flash the insulation off with a flame and measure again to get a reading on copper VS enamel thickness?

[RedHouse]

Just a thought - With PE, could one measure wire, then flash the insulation off with a flame and measure again to get a reading on copper VS enamel thickness?

Well yeah, that's what you have to do really.

So then when you find out your wire is varying, then what does one do? either roll with it, or complain to the mfr. Complaining to the mfr doesn't go very far, they have a "window" of tolerances they allow for so then we're back to the notion that we have to change-up our winding style/parameters to get the tone back in the zone.

This is why I was saying that while it's cool to measure, and cool to have the tools, in the end you get to the same place. One way you go through a lot of spin/churn, the other way you're just getting after it and moving on which is IMHO the better.

[big_teee]

Instead of the burning off the insulation?
The measuring the ohms per foot, is a similar test.
Mic the outside Diameter, then measure the Ohms of 10 feet of wire at a controlled temperature.
With knowing the diameter, then measuring the Ohms, you know if the wire is larger or smaller on the inside.
If you have several different wires this gives a guide for comparison.
The Lower the ohms resistance the bigger the wire, the higher the ohms the smaller the wire.
This is a good test, and has been used for Decades by wire companies and winders alike.
Good Luck,
B_T

[RedHouse]

.... then measure the Ohms of 10 feet of wire and a controlled temperature....

Doing this is good, and simple, and doesn't really require the use of a micrometer.

[copperheadroads]

Doing this is good, and simple, and doesn't really require the use of a micrometer.

I agree .
I find this more often every day ,that your simplest tools are you best tools

[RedHouse]

I agree .
I find this more often every day ,that your simplest tools are you best tools

I would add...

Fussing about things that are beyond one's ability to alter, only brings headache and upset stomach!

If the insulation on one's next spool is different than that of the last spool, deal, alter your recipie to bring the tone back in the zone. The wire supplyers are not going to "take it back" and send you another (unless you are a big customer, then maybe so)

If one is not dynamic enough to deal with something as small as the insulation/wire parameter, one might want to look for another hobby/business.

[big_teee]

I would add...

Fussing about things that are beyond one's ability to alter, only brings headache and upset stomach!

If the insulation on one's next spool is different than that of the last spool, deal, alter your recipie to bring the tone back in the zone. The wire supplyers are not going to "take it back" and send you another (unless you are a big customer, then maybe so)

If one is not dynamic enough to deal with something as small as the insulation/wire parameter, one might want to look for another hobby/business.

I might add, that all the wire is capable of better tone, and Sound, than my Playing!
T

[SonnyW]

I would add...

Fussing about things that are beyond one's ability to alter, only brings headache and upset stomach!

Speaking of fussing about things that are beyond one's ability to alter, I'm just now sitting here thinking and doing just that. I sure hope all of you east coast folks don't get it too bad from Hurricane Sandy, looks like a lot of bad news might be coming.

[big_teee]

Any of you guys make any Strat Coils with A2s and A5s together.
I am thinking of making a neck and middle with A5s on the E, & A, and A2 on the rest.
I have a A2 Set, and I like the 4 High strings fine.
I think the two big Strings would benefit from the A5s?
I'm going to put a white Blade in the bridge position.
T

I finally got this one done, and it IMO really sounds great.
I did them like mentioned above.
I put a blade in the bridge.
On the Neck and middle, I have a modified stagger, and the A5s on the A, & E worked out well.

[RedHouse]

... the A5s on the A, & E worked out well.

When I do a multi-mag coil I do that too (A5 on A&E)

[nickc35]

Here's my latest creation. Kinda like a P bass pickup for a six string guitar in a regular humbucker route. My partner made the wooden bobbins and I wound and assembled it. I used 42 poly magnet wire and wound it kinda hot.....almost 13k. I used 6 alnico 5 rod magnets. Put it in the bridge position of my pickup tester guitar and I am pleasantly surprised at how good it sounds to my ears. It's fuller sounding than a standard Strat single-coil but not as beefy as a regular P-90. And it's nice and quiet.