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Behringer DDX3216 - Trying to repair, please help!

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  • Originally posted by S2udio View Post
    ...comprehenda.
    The group switch combination just sets it to factory default, It does not initiate a EPROM load, maybe you have a partially corrupted device. ....
    Nisse's experience with DDXupdate V1.11: http://forum.ampage.org/forum.php?cmd=vp&mid=274175

    Google 'DDXupdate V1.11 ddx3216' to find the history of this application. GROUP is to engage the mixer in ready to receive data mode and no flash is necessary for that and the mixer only needs to have a working EPROM (basically PROM since without UV window) but its .bin is available online here and elsewhere.

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    • If anyone could help me with version 1.12 (surround sound) of the bin files of IC15 up to including IC18 (and IC19 it wouldn't harm) I'll be very glad. It is because my latest update before the mixer went down was this one. Thanks beforehand.

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      • THANK YOU!

        Originally posted by Phoebus1966 View Post
        Successful LCD fix after replacing all 4 caps surrounding the SCI7654 dc dc converter on the LCD module with tantalium caps.
        Thanks a lot for this information!

        Comment


        • Wow 8 years and still going!

          Bought the DDX 3216 for cheap.

          Power on and then all lights up. Faders crawl upwards slowly over the course of a few minute.

          So... I went through the forum and noted the most common issues and will replace
          - PSU electrolytic caps (after removing them, none had leaked weird)
          - Q3
          -C47 ceramic
          -C52 ceramic

          I will not go into more advanced components if that doesn't work and get rid of the board.

          Can someone tell me the specs of please:
          -C47 (0.1uF?, volts?? How can one tell the volts?)
          -C52 (104?)

          Any help is appreciated. I know diagnosing is better, but that's a whole other game.

          Justin

          Comment


          • Probably the best thing you can do is just use it. If it exhibits any intermittent contacts or scratchy faders get some pot cleaner and contact cleaner. They are mutually exclusive and NOT the same thing so pay attention to that. Don't fix it if it's not broken.

            If the chip you propose replacing were bad you should probably know. If you read somewhere that it failed in one of these mixers, don't worry about it. If you read that it failed in a bunch of these mixers then maybe buy one to have on hand.

            As to the electrolytic caps, that unit isn't very old. I wouldn't have expected failure yet, but if you've already removed them then you might just as well put in new ones rather than stick the eight year old ones back in. If you haven't actually removed them then don't. They could last another ten+ years for all we know. I doubt all the automated stuff and logic interface in that mixer will last that long so you're effort ahead to leave them in there.

            As to the ceramic caps, same as above. If these are just the caps reported in individual failures then forget about it. If they are indeed common failures then just have replacements on hand and take note of the reported symptoms so you'll know if any one of them fails.

            Nothing in that mixer should be high voltage. I would expect 100V caps to be sufficient throughout the circuit and most ceramic cap offerings are at or above that anyway.

            C47- Why is there a question mark after the value indicated? If it says .1uf then that's what it is I suppose. Otherwise, what DOES it say on the cap or in the schematic? We can't answer to a quandry if we don't know what it is.

            C52- 104 is .1uf
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

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            • Chuck thank you very much for taking the time to help.

              I should have been clearer. The board is malfunctioning, when powered on, all the lights stay on and all faders creep up slowly. So unusable.

              I am taking apart the PSU and can't determine the specifications for the following two components:
              -C47 marked 103m: 0.01 uF. But what voltage rating should I get as a replacement? Ordering ok n Canada from Digikey.
              -C52 marked 104 on schematics: 0.1 uF. Again, what voltage rating should I get?

              The schematics I've found online don't specify voltage ratings, only uF. I found the uF rating on page 44 of the following link but no details on voltage rating:
              https://www.electronica-pt.com/esque...hematic-27415/

              Thanks a bunch!

              Comment


              • Ah. Ok. Well, I don't do anything with digital or logic so I'll be lost WRT the CPU trouble. My remarks above were just the basic trouble shooting that applies with little exception to any repair. But one little exception could certainly be that you've got the thing open and half apart anyway. I'll still stand by what I said about whether Q1 and those ceramic caps are common failures or individual cases. If they're common then there's only a small chance of harm doing the additional work. That small chance being that any error or damage you cause (not that I assume you would, but...) could complicate other troubleshooting. It's usually best to repair the known failure before doing any other service just to avoid this potential complication.

                103m is a .01uf value with a +/- 20% tolerance

                104 is a .1 value

                I don't know what voltage is spec for those parts. Maybe someone who posted on this thread and is more familiar with this mixer will chime in on that. But if the parts are known to fail commonly then why? If it has anything to do with the voltage rating then I should think bumping that spec is a good idea anyway.?. And like I said above, 100V for anything in that mixer should be plenty (with the possible exception of any snubber caps on the AC side of a power supply). About the only other concern would be size. I don't know how crowded the boards are in that thing but I guess that the physical size of the capacitors could be a consideration.
                "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

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                • I would look for one of the low voltage power rails being missing.

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                  • Good news!
                    After a complete recap of the PSU and Q3 crystal change, the mixer turns on normally! Now just need to test it with the band.

                    Thanks for the help!

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                    • After reading all the comments, I still don't know, yesterday I started my DDX after 8 years stored in its box and I find that the display does not show any information.
                      When I kept it, everything worked correctly, it really had very few hours of operation, the acquisition of the table was more a whim than a necessity, its use was very punctual in recordings on location, then the entire editing process was done on the computer and the table was not used.
                      As I have commented, the table has its years but very few hours of operation I would say that it does not arrive more than 100 hours running.
                      Can I have capacitor problems even without having been working?
                      I got a recording that I needed to use a table and I said to myself: I'm going to use it again (after 8 years), but what was my disappointment when I saw that nothing came out on the screen. From what has been read, little has been said about this type of problem, green screen and they are information and the contrast button does nothing ...
                      Can you guide me where to go? In practice I could say that the table is like it has just come out of the store. One thing that I did observe from the first day is that the information on the display sometimes blinked and if I tapped on the screen, it was promptly solved, could it be a contact failure? Now, when I started it I also tried the tapping thing but it does nothing.

                      Thanks for the help.

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                      • I have to add that the rest of the table "in principle" everything works, the faders work, their positions are memorized when changing layers, I can change presets and configurations even later 8 years old remembers them, I have written down some of the mix settings and program changes in the work daughters and he does them, I can go from one preset to another and it runs fine, with its change time, some had them set to 4 or more seconds and you see that it really does at that time.
                        The bad thing is that I can't configure anything because you can't see the information on the display ...
                        I do not have "LEDs on" permanently and the faders are fine and without strange noises.
                        All push buttons work properly.
                        At the moment I am going to disassemble it and I will review welds in case there is any that fails, although it has been well stored, even with time there is some connection that has "rusted" and does not make good contact.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by bultaco View Post
                          One thing that I did observe from the first day is that the information on the display sometimes blinked and if I tapped on the screen, it was promptly solved, could it be a contact failure? Now, when I started it I also tried the tapping thing but it does nothing.
                          .
                          When you say 'promptly solved', you mean the display then worked properly? If so, then yes, it is a connection issue. Could be a poor solder joint but could also be as simple as an oxidized connector. Some times undoing the connectors and re-connecting them again is enough to clean off any oxidization.

                          "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                          Comment


                          • Table disassembled, with the power supply disconnected from the plates, the voltages are correct. Now it's time to check them with everything connected.

                            When we take the voltages with the plates disconnected, we must take into account that the analog and digital ground are not connected to each other. I have not checked if once the plates are connected, the ground is connect to each other.

                            Keep in mind that voltages have their own masses, "digital" voltages must be referenced with their digital ground (DG Digital Ground) and analog voltages with their ground (AG Analog Ground)
                            If the voltages are measured with the wrong mass, the voltages are wrong!

                            Comment


                            • On the screen I have observed some cold welds that at first glance do not go anywhere, on the one hand on the pcb (white color that is below the display) it says "A" and "C", here the welds are correct, but on the other side of the pcb is where the cold solders are, I cannot see where these connections go, just as they are only to keep the pcb from moving.

                              Could the contacts between the pcb and the rubber elastic support or between it and the glass also fail?
                              The danger of disassembling the display support is that the small tabs that support it break and then when mounting it, make the contacts match ...

                              Do you know if applying a spray cleaner product can enter between the pcb / elastic support / glass, without separating these?

                              Thanks again

                              I cannot upload images, a message appears that there is little capacity ...
                              Last edited by bultaco; 10-09-2020, 03:38 PM.

                              Comment


                              • The elastomer strips should only be cleaned with something like isopropanol. Do not use a spray cleaner there. And yes, oxidization of those contacts can be a problem.
                                "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                                Comment

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