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		<title>Music Electronics Forum - Music Electronics</title>
		<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/</link>
		<description>General discussion about music electronics</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 04:19:10 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>Music Electronics Forum - Music Electronics</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Noob alert...</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21396/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:06:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey there...first post (well actually 2nd, but who's counting) for another MusicElectronics noob. Been playing circuits and bars, special events and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey there...first post (well actually 2nd, but who's counting) for another MusicElectronics noob. Been playing circuits and bars, special events and the like for over 3 decades now. Gear has ranged from Hiwatt stacks (DR103's) to Marshall Valvestate combo and a couple cool old Harmony tube amps to my current POD XTL rig. Guitars are mostly Les Pauls with a Strat in there for the obligatory &quot;strat-type&quot; tones. Also use a Mellowbar lap slide for the odd tune. Suffering from a major case of G.A.S. at the moment looking for a 70's or 80's Dean Z...at something less than the museum price they seem to be getting. I do my own guitar mods and repairs, and have built effects from scratch. This winter I may build myself a tube amp just to say I have. Would be nice to have glowing tubes behind me again  :thumbsup:<br />
<br />
A computer tech by day, classic rocker after the bell... I've worked in music retail, consulted and configured DAW's, had my own project/demo studio. Currently playing lead guitar and keys in 2 classic rock bands.<br />
<br />
Nice to meet you all!<br />
<br />
Cheers, Steve</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Gtrshop</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21396/</guid>
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			<title>Diode number what is this?</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21394/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 20:34:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have about 200 diodes in a bin that I can't identify. 
I think they are a 1N914 equivalent but can't pin them down. 
glass is Blueish in color...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have about 200 diodes in a bin that I can't identify.<br />
I think they are a 1N914 equivalent but can't pin them down.<br />
glass is Blueish in color black strip.<br />
Numbers as you read around<br />
13<br />
1<br />
G<br />
Q3<br />
Looked on INTERNET tried different number combinations.</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Techknowman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21394/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Are these books for me?</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21375/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:42:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I don't wind pickups but I'm fascinated by pickup technology and guitar circuits in general. I already own a copy of 'Guitar Electronics for...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I don't wind pickups but I'm fascinated by pickup technology and guitar circuits in general. I already own a copy of 'Guitar Electronics for Musicians' and find it entertaining and useful. I got a kick learning about Bill Lawrence's half-out-of-phase mod and learning about how the series capacitor on vintage Rickenbackers bridge pickup was used to get a clearer tone out of flatwounds. I also find it interesting to know which pickups were wound for who and with that in mind I think I'll enjoy 'Guitar Pickup Handbook'. <br />
<br />
How about 'Animal Magnetism for Musicians'? Does it deal with more than just pickup making?</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>RoadToNever</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21375/</guid>
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			<title>LOL</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21373/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:31:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>You may have seen these but I thought I would post. 
Image: http://www.techknowman.com/Electronics/PICTS/spinal_tap_amps.png  
ANOTHER 
Image:...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>You may have seen these but I thought I would post.<br />
<img src="http://www.techknowman.com/Electronics/PICTS/spinal_tap_amps.png" border="0" alt="" /><br />
ANOTHER<br />
<img src="http://www.techknowman.com/Electronics/PICTS/circuit_diagram.png" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Techknowman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21373/</guid>
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			<title>Boss DR55 Drum Machine issue - Electronics problem?</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21370/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 11:29:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just sold my 100% working Boss DR55, and the guy who bought it sent it back claiming it wasn't working. 
 
I hooked it up and it's completely fine,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just sold my 100% working Boss DR55, and the guy who bought it sent it back claiming it wasn't working.<br />
<br />
I hooked it up and it's completely fine, however since I had it last week, it has developed a problem.<br />
<br />
When i write the first BD sound in the 16 steps, it writes one when I button down, and another when I release, meaning I can only write a double BD at the begining of a sequence. The only way I can get a single hit at the beginning of a sequence is to press the write button as normal, but then press the clear button before I release the write button.<br />
<br />
However this still makes timing difficult as it's hard to place the first snare or rimshot or even the next BD as i'm not sure to count 3 or two.<br />
<br />
Anyway, its damaged somehow and I'd like to fix it. So i came here.<br />
<br />
Firstly, how easy would it be to just fix the problem? As a novice, could I do it?<br />
<br />
I look forward to some advice!<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Stakker</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21370/</guid>
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			<title>Help with doing a vocal set up.</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21369/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:01:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Here's one for you muso/electronics types. Being a student, I'm trying to do a vocal set up for band practice with my metal band on the cheap.  
 
I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Here's one for you muso/electronics types. Being a student, I'm trying to do a vocal set up for band practice with my metal band on the cheap. <br />
<br />
I looked into buying a powered mixer but there is nothing in my price range that would keep up with the guitars and drums.<br />
<br />
I have two 300 watt RMS speakers, would I be able to power them with this amp (<a href="http://tiny.cc/d7uxm" target="_blank">Lanzer Amplifier for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand</a>) and run my mic through this mixer (<a href="http://tiny.cc/dt47l" target="_blank">BEHRINGER MX400 4 CHANNEL MIXER for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand</a>) into the amp via this adapter (<a href="http://tiny.cc/4buyd" target="_blank">http://tiny.cc/4buyd</a>)?<br />
<br />
Bit fresh when it comes to this, any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>ChchMetalVocalist</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21369/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>sunn sx8350</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21365/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 23:17:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>a question for anyone... how much would a sunn sx8350 be worth? any educated guess would be great. thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>a question for anyone... how much would a sunn sx8350 be worth? any educated guess would be great. thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>dawndep</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21365/</guid>
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			<title>Funny product of the day</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21351/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:00:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[... or maybe the week, or the entire year. 
 
I like to pop into the Neutrik site every now and then and see what new clever connectors they've come...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>... or maybe the week, or the entire year.<br />
<br />
I like to pop into the Neutrik site every now and then and see what new clever connectors they've come up with, and today I noticed this:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_2072027590/NA2JJ_detail.aspx" target="_blank">Neutrik - Audio - Plug Accessories - NA2JJ</a><br />
<br />
Is it just my skewed sensibilities, or is that thing seriously funny?  Clever yes, but really funny!</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Mark Black</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21351/</guid>
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			<title>Marshall 2205 Reverb Problem</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21344/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 01:31:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1986 Marshall 2205 Head. This is the split channel 50 watt head with reverb. The reverb crackles unless turned all the way off.  
 
Here's...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1986 Marshall 2205 Head. This is the split channel 50 watt head with reverb. The reverb crackles unless turned all the way off. <br />
<br />
Here's what I have tried: <br />
Cleaned the pot. It felt loose the affects the crackling sound when you move it. I cannot find a spot on the pot, other than all the way off, where the amp does not crackle.   I removed the pot, cleaned it and put it back together and reinstalled.  It really didn't look bad inside.<br />
<br />
The amp crackles with or without the footswitch. I believe the footswitch has issues as well, but that's another project for now. <br />
<br />
Cleaned and checked the RCA connectors going to the reverb tank. <br />
<br />
Checked the reverb tank. No noticable damage. Measured 34 ohms across the input transformer and 202 ohms across the output transformer.<br />
<br />
Checked the amp with the reverb tank unplugged. Still crackles <br />
<br />
Chop sticked around in the amp. Nothing seems to be loose or creates the crackle sound. <br />
<br />
Substituted the reverb tube with a new tube. <br />
<br />
I ordered a new reverb pot, but I am not convinced that it is the problem.  Any other suggestions?</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Gibsonman63</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21344/</guid>
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			<title>help mackie satallite audio interface hum noise</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21340/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 15:52:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got a mackie satallite firewire audio interface and although the general sound is acceptable for recording there is an always present hum+slight...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've got a mackie satallite firewire audio interface and although the general sound is acceptable for recording there is an always present hum+slight whine (mostly hum) heard through the monitor (phones) and ends up on recording as well.<br />
Too high a voltage on the preamps?<br />
<br />
Could I change/increase  B+ caps to to reduce this?<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>psavy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21340/</guid>
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			<title>balanced audio question</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21300/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 16:11:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>howdy all! 
 
how do I split a std. 10k unbalanced commercial audio signal into a combined signal (mono) + std stereo signal for 2.1 amplification?...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>howdy all!<br />
<br />
how do I split a std. 10k unbalanced commercial audio signal into a combined signal (mono) + std stereo signal for 2.1 amplification? The mono signal will then go through the (magic) Linkwitz Transform circuit.<br />
<br />
is a resistive mixer AOK or should I use an isolating transformer like this Edcor unit:<br />
<a href="http://www.edcorusa.com/Products/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=21" target="_blank">EDCOR - S2M</a> <br />
to make the combined (mono) sub feed and use the front end stereo signal to go to the mains?  <br />
<br />
the 2.1 unbalanced will then have the mains stereo + LT mono sub -&gt; 600ohm balanced, and fed to the (3) amps<br />
<br />
this is likely simple but I my brain isn't working currently...;)</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>tedmich</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21300/</guid>
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			<title>Carvin drops a few $100  Kilomax 15s</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21296/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 02:42:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Eminence Kilomax 15 are usually $240 each, and they do midbass pretty well,  pumping out +130db with 1000w above 60Hz in a filter assisted QB5...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Eminence Kilomax 15 are usually $240 each, and they do midbass pretty well,  pumping out +130db with 1000w above 60Hz in a filter assisted QB5 alignment.<br />
<br />
Carvin has 4 new ones they don't need and are selling for $100 each (ship incl.) on the Ebay:<br />
item #<br />
150485830112<br />
<br />
at that price you could flip them for an easy $200...well not easy as they weigh 100lbs...</div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>tedmich</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21296/</guid>
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			<title>Fake Axial Caps!</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21295/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:31:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[that I made! 
 
wanted a big beefy axial filter cap and didn't want to shell of the $27 Mouser wants for a 100uf/450v Atom. Sure some places say they...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>that I made!<br />
<br />
wanted a big beefy axial filter cap and didn't want to shell of the $27 Mouser wants for a 100uf/450v Atom. Sure some places say they have these for ~$10 but what do I know about them?  Even Sprague lists no ESR or RIPPLE CURRENT or LIFETIME data.<br />
<br />
I had 2 excellent CDE caps, the 220uf 250v 381lx units which are rated to 12,000h ripple life at 85C, with decent ESR and a full 105C rating. They are also among the most compact caps for their capacity, a scant 1&quot; x1&quot;.<br />
<br />
But they are snap-in, thus was born the Snap in to Axial (SITA) project.<br />
<br />
I made 2 little PCBs<br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WbJ1JcTROqQ/THmYbQL9mPI/AAAAAAAADbs/wsdBfoT_uAw/s400/DSCN4566.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
and then added equalizing resistors and tied them in series with some stout copper tape and 22awg PTFE/Cu/Ag wire<br />
<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WbJ1JcTROqQ/THmXCwya2yI/AAAAAAAADdI/f2qgUWVl3Lk/s400/DSCN4571.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
and closed them up in a nice piece of shrink tube Harbor freight sells<br />
<img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WbJ1JcTROqQ/THmXDNwXtkI/AAAAAAAADak/0as1XBp8OfI/s400/DSCN4572.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WbJ1JcTROqQ/THmXDD0a9pI/AAAAAAAADao/DNUdL4VyM7w/s400/DSCN4573.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
it looks (on paper) better than the Atom and other axials from the Mouse<br />
<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WbJ1JcTROqQ/THmXDYFsImI/AAAAAAAADcY/8V5qvokMjvo/s800/DSCN4574.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>tedmich</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21295/</guid>
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			<title>Toneluck switchs</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21285/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Aug 2010 04:24:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Some time back I needed 2 Toneluck switch's. I was unable to buy them from any vendor in the USA and the American distributer didn't have them and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Some time back I needed 2 Toneluck switch's. I was unable to buy them from any vendor in the USA and the American distributer didn't have them and wouldn't buy them.<br />
I did find them in the UK and bought 25 of each to make it worth my while.<br />
So in a nut shell I'm selling these as an unofficial distributer.<br />
I have <br />
MPN-S2DA or Rapid part #'s 78-0530 (2 pole latching switch)<br />
MPN-S4DA or Rapid part #'s 78-0535 (4 pole latching switch)<br />
<img src="http://www.techknowman.com/Electronics/PICTS/toneluck-mpn-sx.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>Techknowman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21285/</guid>
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			<title>Honey, I Shrunk the Resistors</title>
			<link>http://music-electronics-forum.com/t21277/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:45:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just ordered a bunch of stock from Newark.  wow, was I surprised by the variations in size of 1/2 watt metal film resistors.   
 
Take a look at...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just ordered a bunch of stock from Newark.  wow, was I surprised by the variations in size of 1/2 watt metal film resistors.  <br />
<br />
Take a look at the photo.  All 3 groups of resistors are 500 mW, 1% metal film resistors that came from different manufacturers.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://music-electronics-forum.com/attachments/10826d1282926847-metal-film.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<b>LEFT</b> Vishay/BC Components, SFR16S0 series.  As I recall they're manufactured in Brazil and Thailand.  They're diminutive in size.  Being the size of a flea, its hard for me to imagine that these things truly have a 500 mW power rating, but here's the data sheet:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.vishay.com/docs/28722/sfr16s25.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.vishay.com/docs/28722/sfr16s25.pdf</a><br />
<br />
<b>MIDDLE</b> Wellwyn, made in the UK.  They are about the size of what I think of when I think of a 1/2 watt metal film resistor.  <br />
<br />
<b>RIGHT</b>  MultiComp, made in China.  They are HUGE, and oversized for what I think of as a 500 mW resistors.  Their spec sheets are spotty.  I only bought them when I couldn't find the required value from another supplier who provided more complete data sheets.<br />
<br />
<br />
Can anyone provide feedback for me on the Vishay product that's located in the left side of the photo?  Although things seem to look OK on the spec sheet (and the spec sheet does offer far more complete data than you'll find in most resistor spec sheets), their diminutive size worries me.  Maybe I'm just old enough to be prejudiced to the idea that size matters more than it should.  I know that metal film resistors are more volumentrically efficient than other types, and that manufacturing technology is making things smaller, but geez...<br />
<br />
My gut feeling is that those little flea-sized resistors will get really hot, and that they will just burn up, or they will burn the board, or they will burn my fingers.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have experience with them?</div>


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			<category domain="http://music-electronics-forum.com/f48/">Music Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>bob p</dc:creator>
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